Andrew Mark Veety

Seafood Boil In The Heart of St. Louis

This post finds me thankful for my wife, Sara. A few years ago she found herself successful, but unhappy working for a large corporation here in St. Louis. In what was a test of our relationship and eventually our marriage, we decided that the time was right for her to leave her job and pursue a new career. Sara graduated right before we were married, and the events leading up to our wedding probably overshadowed her accomplishment of graduating with a degree in Interior Design more than either of us would admit. 

One year later Sara has continued her string of accomplishments, completing her LEED certification in environmental design. If you don't know what LEED is, you will soon. The ideas driving green building have a foundation in LEED, and in the near future those ideas will become everyday practice. I'm proud that Sara will be at the forefront of a new way of designing and building structures, with an appreciation for the relationship between people, the buildings we live and work in, the Earth and it's limited resources. 

To celebrate Sara's certification, I planned a cookout at our house that in hindsight had an enormous carbon foot print due to the main course - a seafood boil of snow crab from Alaska, new potatoes and fresh corn on the cob. Trying to stick with a tradition that I have only read about, I covered a part of our picnic area with brown paper bags, then poured the crab and vegetables onto the table where we all gathered around to a family style seafood feast.  

It was a rare moment of decadence with our hands covered in Old Bay and garlic infused butter, but it brought together good friends and Sara's favorite food to celebrate the hard work that she has completed. I guess in the end that made it even more of a moment to savor than the crabs themselves. 

Here is to large and small victories, and for hoping that we take the time to celebrate them with our friends and family. 

American Exceptionalism

"Because the idea of American exceptionalism doesn’t extend to Americans being exceptional. If you excelled academically and are able to casually use 690 SAT words then you might as well have the press shoot video of you giving the finger to the Statue of Liberty while the Dixie Chicks sing the University of the Taliban fight song. The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it."

Maureen Dowd, Aaron Sorkin Conjures a Meeting of Obama and Bartlet, New York Times, September 21, 2008

"Doesn't "elite" mean good? Is that not something we're looking for in President anymore?"

The Daily Show, April 14, 2008

When Hot Dogs Cost Hundreds

Very often I find myself seeking out American cuisine that transcends region and social structure, foods that are woven into the fabric of our country and rise to the level of equalizer, enjoyed by all, but in our own individual ways. Regionally, there are few items that represent this idea better than the hot dog. 

Be it the perfect union of dog and fruit juice at Gray's Papaya in New York City, the crunch of a deep fried Ripper at Rutt's Hut in New Jersey, the ritual of visiting The Varsity in Atlanta or dogs that are dragged through Chicago's best gardens, I am always seeking out places that are new to me, but are long time standards for locals, foodies and road warriors in the know.

It is with this in mind that I headed to Chicago recently to attend a conference on Information Technology Governance, which happened to be located close to two standout hot dog joints that I missed on my last trip in June. My goal was to attend the conference and then enjoy a dinner of dogs before heading back to St. Louis. I planned to stop first at Hot Doug's and then move on to Superdawg where in car dining still reigns supreme. 

Alas, my plans were interrupted as I was hustling though a dark construction zone about 40 miles outside of Chicago. I was heading back to my hotel with dinner - a coveted Lou Malnati's pizza resting between an Investors Business Daily and Wall Street Journal, covered by a sweat shirt and kept warm by the seat warmers in the passenger seat. With the smell of deep dish wafting though the car and my thoughts turning towards sitting back in my room with a beer and pizza I did not notice a large object in the road. Upon impact it shredded my front tire, banged around the underside of the car for an eternity, sent me into what shoulder there was to be had and the mud left from 9 inches of rain left by Hurricane Ike a few days before. 

The process of extracting my car from that mess took over an hour and included a second tow truck when the first slid into the mud and also got stuck. Back in my hotel room and with my conference plans in doubt I dug into that Lou Malnati's pie in a joyless state that did not give it justice (hence no review), but with a hearty appreciation for whomever invented the heated seat, which kept my pie hot though the whole ordeal. 

I spent the next day sitting around a repair shop having my car checked out and waiting for them to locate the tires I needed to match my existing ones. As morning turned to afternoon, I slowly gave up on making it to my conference and instead grabbed my GPS to see if I could find lunch, specifically a hot dog, within walking distance of where I was stuck. 

I ended up at a chain called Portillo's that in many respects reminds me of a Fuddrucker's where the burgers have been swapped for Chicago style dogs. The size of a small warehouse with a two lane drive though wrapping around the back, the place was busy for 1:30PM in the afternoon, which for most is long past lunchtime. 

There are 40+ Portillo's now, however the first opened as a stand called "The Dog House" in 1963. While they have expanded to a minor restaurant empire you can't tell by the hot dogs which were excellent. I started with "the works" that met my recommended daily intake of vegetables and nitrates. Loaded down with sauerkraut, mustard, onion, sweet pickle relish, a dill pickle spear, tomato, peppers, and celery salt, this dog is a challenge to fit into your mouth. All this rides inside a steamed poppy seed bun which holds up to the task of transport from wrapper to waiting stomach. It is worth the effort and very filling, living up to the nickname this style of hot dog has, "The Depression Sandwich", earned in 1929.

The misfortune of the past 24 hours began to vanish, but was not complete until I moved along to a chili dog with onions. 

I rarely partake of the chili dog for reasons that range from intestinal fortitude to domestic tranquility, but I am a long time fan. I've even been known to root friends on when they opt for this special dog. Without the salad that perches atop a Chicago dog, the quality of the Portillo's hot dog has a chance to shine, especially the natural casing which has a pleasant snap when bitten. The chili reminded me of the style you can find at Skyline in Cincinnati and it played well with the added onion. Again, the poppy seeded bun was sturdy enough to carry the dog and fixings without becoming overly soggy or breaking. 

Back in St. Louis, I am happy that the damage to my car was not worse. The materials and slides from the conference will find their way to me via Fed-ex over the next week or so. Finding Portillio's was a stroke of luck, but I am not done with the city by the lake. I will be back sooner rather than later, Superdawg, and I'll be hungry.

Opinion: Recommended

Multiple Locations in Illinois, Indiana and California

Won't Get Fooled Again

The change, it had to come

We knew it all along

We were liberated from the fold, that's all

And the world looks just the same

And history ain't changed

'Cause the banners, they were all flown in the last war...

Meet the new boss

Same as the old boss

The Who, Won't Get Fooled Again, June 1971

"There's a lot of talk about Iraq on our TV screens, and there should be, because we're trying to figure out how best to make the world a peaceful place. There's an old saying in Tennessee -- I know it's in Texas, probably in Tennessee -- that says, fool me once, shame on -- shame on you. Fool me -- you can't get fooled again. You've got to understand the nature of the regime we're dealing with. This is a man who has delayed, denied, deceived the world. For the sake of liberty and justice for all, the United Nations Security Council must act, must act in way to hold this regime to account, must not be fooled, must be relevant to keep the peace."

President George W. Bush, Remarks by the President on Teaching American History and Civic Education, September 17, 2002

"This nation has suffered through eight years of an ill-prepared and unblinkingly obstinate president. One who didn’t pause to think before he started a disastrous war of choice in Iraq. One who blithely looked the other way as the Taliban and Al Qaeda regrouped in Afghanistan. One who obstinately cut taxes and undercut all efforts at regulation, unleashing today’s profound economic crisis.

In a dangerous world, Americans need a president who knows that real strength requires serious thought and preparation."

Gov. Palin's Worldview, New York Times Editorial, September 12, 2008

"Later, in the spin zones of cable TV, commentators repeatedly made the point that there are probably very few voters — some specifically mentioned “hockey moms” — who could explain the Bush doctrine. But that’s exactly the reason we have such long and intense campaigns. You want to find the individuals who best understand these issues, who will address them in sophisticated and creative ways that enhance the well-being of the nation.

The Bush doctrine, which flung open the doors to the catastrophe in Iraq, was such a fundamental aspect of the administration’s foreign policy that it staggers the imagination that we could have someone no further than a whisper away from the White House who doesn’t even know what it is.

You can’t imagine that John McCain or Barack Obama or Joe Biden or Hillary Clinton or Joe Lieberman would not know what the Bush doctrine is. But Sarah Palin? Absolutely clueless."

She's Not Ready, Robert Herbert, September 12, 2008

"Sarah, who is now so renowned that she is known merely by one name and has a name ID of 90 percent, has to be a Kmart mom who appeals to Kmart moms and dads. She’s already shown that she can shoot the pig, put lipstick on it, bring home the bacon and fry it up in a pan. Now all she has to do is also prove that she can be the leader of the free world on a moment’s notice, and field dress Putin as adeptly as she can a moose."

My Fair Veep, Maureen Dowd, September 9, 2008

Tower Grove Park Totras

As August rolled to a close, we got together in Tower Grove Park to have a mass celebration for all of our August born friends. With over 50 people expected around dinner time, the event host, Bob Baker decided to feed the throngs tortas, a Mexican sandwich that is both fresh and filling. I offered to help Bob with the prep work and assembly in exchange for an interview on his experience recreating this classic, and what it was like to share it with folks who have never had the chance to enjoy one of the hidden treasures of tacqueria cuisine. 

I hope the following discussion peeks your interest and you head out to try this unique sandwich for yourself.

Q. As you worked the grill, I heard several people walk past me discussing how you believe the torta is the "king of sandwiches". For you, what makes the torta superior to other sandwiches?

 

A. I like the torta because it's never caught on with mainstream America - - it looks too much like a sandwich, I think.  But really it's the best of both worlds:  the best starch (bread) with the best cuisine (Mexican).   Also, the layering of ingredients on a torta makes each one stand out more than when they are crammed together in a burrito.

 

Q. I can appreciate that viewpoint. The totra reminds me of the Vietnamese Bahn Mi sandwich, which is a personal favorite of mine. Both sandwiches have an almost perfect balance, where each ingredient complements the other. For your taste, is there one ingredient that you feel makes this sandwich, or do you feel its a team effort with all the ingredients playing off each other?

 

A. I think it's the combination of so many good ingredients that gives the torta its appeal.  It's the Mexican version of a dagwood sandwich.

Q. I like that you took the time to shop for authentic ingredients, like the correct breads and meats. Did you learn anything new as part of your research and prep? Any skills or techniques you would like to use more in your daily cooking?

 

A. The bakery I went to on Cherokee St calls the torta roll a telera.  Crunchy on the outside, and airy on the inside.  And the butcher recommended the arrachera cut of beef for the carne asada (flap meat, i believe).  After I ordered the meat, the butcher took the already thin steaks, and butterflied them ever thinner, to about 1/8" i suppose.  I marinated the meat for 8 hours in an olive oil, lime and spice mix.  Despite the thinness of the beef and the time spent in lime juice, when cooked medium, the meat was tough and the marinade sat on top like too much Italian dressing. I found it was better to cook the meat to well done, well-browned on both sides, to make the meat tastier and easier to chew.  Any moisture lost from over-cooking was easily replaced by the guacamole, pico do gallo, cheese, lettuce, and refried beans.

 

Q. We spoke after you made these sandwiches and mentioned that you took some of the beef and continued to marinade it for several days. Any lessons learned there?

A. After 8 hours of marinating, the meat was more tender, but still a bit too chewy.  A day later, the meat was easy to cut and chew through.  And two days later, it was even better.  I would have continued this experiment for the next week, but my wife (a vegetarian) got digested looking at this experiment progress in the fridge, and removed it from sight.  Bottom line - - I guess the arrachera cut of meat needs a lot of time (or maybe more acid) to truly soften up.

Q. I had a discussion with someone who insisted on comparing the torta to a muffaletta? Do you think this is a fair comparison?

 

A. Not for me.  I adore the contrasting fresh ingredients of tortas, and can do without the fatty, densely stacked meat, cheese, and olive mix of a muffaletta.  I suppose the muffaletta roll is pretty similar to a telera.  After that, they go their own ways.

Q. You seemed to focus on using a flat top to complete the cheese component of this sandwich, where did you pick up this technique?

 

A. At my favorite St Louis tacqueria (La Vallesana) they throw shredded cheese on the griddle, lay a toasted telera on top, and sweep everything up a few seconds later.  I tried this using a cast iron griddle.  At first I noticed the cheese stuck to the grill as much as the roll - - but found that a quick slide underneath with a metal spatula could get under the browned cheese - - and leave the cheesy topped roll looking like it had just come from the broiler.

 

As a side note, I am not a fan of the mayo/mustard approach some take on these sandwiches.  Fresh salsa and guacamole make more sense to me with spicy grilled Mexican meat, even when served on a bread roll.

 

Q. The crowd also was really into your guacamole, do you have any recommendations that you would like to share?

 

A. I've always felt avocado can stand on its own.   A little salt, pepper and garlic salt isn't too obtrusive.  And if it's going to sit for a while, some lime juice can keep it green.  I prefer it without the lime, but that's the price you pay when serving at a leisurely party.

           

Q. Here in St. Louis, where would you send someone to have their first torta, and what would you tell them to order?

 

A. For anyone's first torta in Saint Louis, the standard bearer is La Vallesana on Cherokee Street.  It's not quite as good as ones I've had Southwest from here, but it's certainly enough to find out whether tortas speak to you.

We Can Do Better Than This

"...In the execution of such a plan, nothing is more essential, than that permanent, inveterate antipathies against particular Nations, and passionate attachments for others, should be excluded; and that, in place of them, just and amicable feelings towards all should be cultivated. The Nation, which indulges towards another an habitual hatred, or an habitual fondness, is in some degree a slave. It is a slave to its animosity or to its affection, either of which is sufficient to lead it astray from its duty and its interest. Antipathy in one nation against another disposes each more readily to offer insult and injury, to lay hold of slight causes of umbrage, and to be haughty and intractable, when accidental or trifling occasions of dispute occur. Hence frequent collisions, obstinate, envenomed, and bloody contests. The Nation, prompted by ill-will and resentment, sometimes impels to war the Government, contrary to the best calculations of policy. The Government sometimes participates in the national propensity, and adopts through passion what reason would reject; at other times, it makes the animosity of the nation subservient to projects of hostility instigated by pride, ambition, and other sinister and pernicious motives. The peace often, sometimes perhaps the liberty, of Nations has been the victim.

The great rule of conduct for us, in regard to foreign nations, is, in extending our commercial relations, to have with them as little political connexion as possible. So far as we have already formed engagements, let them be fulfilled with perfect good faith. Here let us stop.

Europe has a set of primary interests, which to us have none, or a very remote relation. Hence she must be engaged in frequent controversies, the causes of which are essentially foreign to our concerns. Hence, therefore, it must be unwise in us to implicate ourselves, by artificial ties, in the ordinary vicissitudes of her politics, or the ordinary combinations and collisions of her friendships or enmities.

Our detached and distant situation invites and enables us to pursue a different course. If we remain one people, under an efficient government, the period is not far off, when we may defy material injury from external annoyance; when we may take such an attitude as will cause the neutrality, we may at any time resolve upon, to be scrupulously respected; when belligerent nations, under the impossibility of making acquisitions upon us, will not lightly hazard the giving us provocation; when we may choose peace or war, as our interest, guided by justice, shall counsel.

Why forego the advantages of so peculiar a situation? Why quit our own to stand upon foreign ground? Why, by interweaving our destiny with that of any part of Europe, entangle our peace and prosperity in the toils of European ambition, rivalship, interest, humor, or caprice?

It is our true policy to steer clear of permanent alliances with any portion of the foreign world; so far, I mean, as we are now at liberty to do it; for let me not be understood as capable of patronizing infidelity to existing engagements. I hold the maxim no less applicable to public than to private affairs, that honesty is always the best policy. I repeat it, therefore, let those engagements be observed in their genuine sense. But, in my opinion, it is unnecessary and would be unwise to extend them.

Taking care always to keep ourselves, by suitable establishments, on a respectable defensive posture, we may safely trust to temporary alliances for extraordinary emergencies."

President George Washington, Farewell Address, 1796

"...defending the United States, the American people, and our interests at home and abroad by identifying and destroying the threat before it reaches our borders. While the United States will constantly strive to enlist the support of the international community, we will not hesitate to act alone, if necessary, to exercise our right of self defense by acting preemptively against such terrorists, to prevent them from doing harm against our people and our country"

President George W. Bush, National Security Strategy, September 2002

"GIBSON: Do you agree with the Bush Doctrine?

PALIN: In what respect, Charlie?

GIBSON: Bush -- What do you interpret it to be?

PALIN: His world-view?

GIBSON: Well, the Bush Doctrine, September 2002, before the Iraq war.

PALIN: I believe that what President Bush has attempted to do is rid this world of Islamic extremism, terrorists who are hellbent on destroying our nation. There have been blunders along the way, though...

GIBSON: The Bush Doctrine, as I understand it, is that we have the right of anticipatory self-defense, that we have the right to a pre-emptive strike against any other country that we think is going to attack us. Do you agree with that?

PALIN: Charlie, if there is legitimate and enough intelligence that tells us that a strike is imminent against the American people, we have every right to defend our country."

Republican Vice Presidential Nominee, Sara Palin, September 11, 2008

Giving Into the Crave.

A highlight of the fall in St. Louis is our yearly bike race, The Tour de Moose. We've stepped things up this year with a planning board and training rides to accommodate a ridership that has grown from 20 to 60 in three years, with 100 expected this year. 

Our first ride of the season was this morning and what started as a quick bike ride with a few adult beverages planned afterward quickly evolved into a culinary and gastrointestinal adventure as well. 

Our Sunday morning ride started around 9:30 AM and about an hour later we happened past a White Castle that my friend Moose (of the Tour de) wanted to put on this years tour as a pit stop. The idea is to offer a break between legs where riders can roll past and grab a slider like marathon runners reaching for bottles of water. As we were already testing our bikes and the race route, we figured it would be a good idea to test our stomachs as well with a mid-morning slider break. 

From left to right we have a fish slider, a traditional White Castle, and resting like a king on its orange throne the new A1 White Castle. My impromptu goal was to compare the A1 slider against the original, and truth be told the only difference is a dollop of A1 Steak Sauce and a lack of pickles. For me, the pickle is what makes a White Castle and they are missed on the A1 where the bite of sour would play nicely against the steak sauce and onions. 

Both burgers benefited from the early morning visit. While the sign out front states that they are always open, it seemed that the bun was fresher than you would find at midnight visit to White Castle. The freshness of the bread did a good job soaking up the grease and onion juice that usually meld a slider to its box and eventually the bag. 

In full disclosure, I added the fish slider because I had skipped breakfast and really, who orders the fish at White Castle? In my opinion it is the best item on the menu, but it too could benefit from the liberal application of a pickle or two, alone or riding in some tarter sauce.

Opinion: Recommended with reservations, usually the morning after.

Welcome Fall

Nobody knows better than my wife that I love Alton Brown and his show Good Eats. Earlier this year he did an episode named “Apple of My Pie”, and knowing that apple pie is a fall time favorite of mine, my wife went out and got me a pie bird and tart pan in an effort to move me past store bought dough to making my own as Alton suggested.

 

Making pie dough was a challenge for me, however in the end everything came together. I can’t claim this recipe for my own, but I did make a slight change - I could not find apple jack and used apple vodka in its place. I would also increase Alton’s cooking times a bit for my oven, from 50 minutes to 60 or 70.

In the spirit of fall, I present my first from scratch pie, completed with a black bird, baked inside.