Andrew Mark Veety

Send Me To Hot Dog University!

There was a bit of talk on Twitter recently about the Vienna Beef iPhone app, which I downloaded and had a chance to check out. While the functionality of the actual application appears to be dubious at best, it does have a link section. And that link section includes a reference to the Hot Dog University in Chicago.

Jackpot.

Known as "The Harvard of Encased Meats", Hot Dog U has a weekend long course entitled "The Art of the Cart" which was designed for people who are considering purchasing a hot dog cart. Now, regular readers of this site know I'm a sucker for a good hot dog. Is the leap from hot dog aficionado to hot dog vendor that hard to imagine for me?

Ok. Maybe the hod dog vending life is not for me, with my life as it exists today. However, I think the experience would be priceless and help to improve my writing on the topic of hot dogs. Who would doubt a hot dog review from a guy with an actual degree in hot dogs?

I was all kinds of fired up when the video above was highlighted on CBS's Sunday Morning several years ago. Alas, I could not get my wife to agree that attending a $700.00 class at the University was an efficient use of our resources. Unable to get a convincing argument past her, I moved on but never really forgot about my idea to attend Hot Dog University.

Well, all this talk of Vienna beef has me thinking it might make sense to give it another try, the good old college try. However, this time with some help. I will gladly cover the cost of travel and lodging, but I'd like to make a heart felt appeal to my readers for help with the class. Will you help? Please click the image below to donate.

Surfdogs Just Might Have The Best Buns In St. Louis

In the realm of intelligent things to do on a Sunday afternoon, I'm not sure pounding almost a half dozen hot dogs is one of them. I am positive its not a good idea when you have traveled over 20 miles to try one of the new guards of St. Louis hot dog joints, Surfdogs, where surfing, perfectly steamed poppy seed buns and Jimmy Buffet reign supreme.

To start, I'd like to share with you the souvenir I brought back from my trip to the Chesterfield Valley - my membership in the Surfdogs Hang 10 Club. In about 20 minutes I managed to "Hang 5", barely, before the ordering stopped and I limped back to the car for the long trip back to Webster. 

For the record, I ate half of the Big Kahuna Challenge. Basically the challenge consists of a person, a seat, 10 decadent hot dogs and 60 minutes. According to the Surfdogs website there are no substitutions, no trips to the bathroom and if you hork before your done, I have to assume the challenge is over. If its not over, it should be. However it is unclear if the rules allow you to continue after vomiting. To be honest I don't really want to know.

In any event I would be unable to compete for the Big Kahuna given the number of hot dogs that include cheese, in slice, shredded and sauce form. While I was able to ask for my dogs to be made sans cheese, for the purposes of maintaining the integrity of the Big Kahuna Challenge, the dogs can't be made without cheese. 

I think it would be grossly unfair to the handful of people who have actually completed this gut wrenching challenge to attempt it without doing the cheese dogs. 

Joining me on my trip was my friend, hot dog with ketchup lover, and sometimes site guest contributor Jeff, who brought along his daughter, who had this face on pretty much the whole time I was eating. Clocking in at a year and a half, even she seemed to know that what I was doing was wrong, and possibly against the very laws of nature.

While I appreciate that she was worried about what was unfolding in front of her, I still had to make the most of my trip because I honestly don't know how often I will get back there. 

Hence the desperation inherent in my ordering - as you will see over the following paragraphs. Yeah, that's the ticket.

Here is the rundown:

From Left to Right - The New York Dog, The Original Surf Dog, The Ruben Dog

The New York Dog is a Vienna Beef dog on a steamed bun topped with spicy mustard, giardiniera peppers and sauerkraut. Now longtime readers will remember my issues with "New York Style" dogs both at Woofies and Pam's Chicago Style Dogs. Much like at Pam's, the addition of giardiniera is tasty, but it has nothing to do with New York hot dogs. New York hot dogs come from a dirty water dog cart, topped with mustard, onion sauce and sauerkraut. When they are from a shop they are grilled on a flat top, topped just like a dirty water dog and ideally served with papaya juice. I've eaten hundreds of hot dogs in NYC, and never once was I even offered the option of giardiniera. Now don't get me wrong, giardiniera is an amazing topping. It tastes great on a dog, and even better on Chicago style Italian beef, but its addition does not make for a New York hot dog. You know what does? Mustard and sauerkraut. All in all, a great hot dog with a geographically depressing name for this NYC transplant.

The Original Surf Dog is a Vienna Beef dog on a steamed bun topped with pineapple, tomato, bacon, peppers and swiss cheese. As I mentioned above I asked for mine without the cheese. My experience with this dog started rocky when a bite of dog and crushed pineapple came on a bit strong. However as I made my way into the dog, the mixture of fruit, dog, bacon and peppers made for a downright excellent and unexpected hot dog. Surf Dog, you live up to your namesake.

The Reuben Dog is a Vienna Beef dog on a steamed bun topped with 1,000 island dressing and sauerkraut. Simple and tasty, this was the only dog that I didn't have to ask for no cheese on, even though I think I should have if it was really a reuben. Regardless, this one went down first and fast. 

While I was taking down my first basket of dogs, Jeff attacked Capn' Misty's Italian Dog, a Vienna Beef dog on a poppy seed bun topped with mozzarella cheese, marinara sauce (or gravy if you were taught correctly) and sweet peppers. The menu indicates the bun should be toasted, but from the picture it looks like this one was not. Jeff was really happy with this gussied up pizza dog and with the fact that the bun was steamed instead of toasted. 

From Left to Right - The South Shore Slaw Dog and The Dog House

There comes a time when you are eating really dumb amounts of food that you decide that you're going to order again before you finish what's in front of you. I blame the menu that hung there on the wall, just staring at me. Three dogs was more than enough for one visit, but as if my feet were taking directions from my sack instead of my highly rational brain or completely full stomach, I soon found myself back at the counter ordering the two gut busters pictured above. 

The first, or rather fourth dog was The South Shore Slaw Dog, a Vienna Beef dog on a steamed poppy seed bun topped with a really fresh and well executed cole slaw. Now, I've eaten slaw dogs all over the south, but i have to say this reminded me of a slaw dog that I would make at home during a cookout. The right amount of tang and the right amount of crunch from the cabbage. Bravo.

My fifth dog was the aptly named Dog House. A combination of The Cheesy Dog, The Epic Chili Dog and a South Shore Slaw Dog, this dog is by all measures a problem, or maybe it was just a problem that I was eating it last. First off, without the cheese, it was just a dense and amazing slaw chili dog. I can't imagine this dog covered with cheese sauce, or rather I can't imagine how I would eat it without a knife and fork. Not that there is anything wrong with knife and forking a dog if you need to. To be honest as I sized up this dog, I thought about my brother attempting the Chili Pie at Woofies this past spring and then I counted my blessings it was missing the cheese and dug in.

The chili was sweet and not very spicy. The first bite reminded me of Skyline Chili, as did the second. By the third bite I found myself back in the middle of a slaw dog, with the tang mixing well with the sweetness of the chili. By this point I was not even sure there was a hot dog in there, I was just trying to finish. 

Which I did, thank you very much.

Postscript:

As I write this, its been about 36 hours since my visit to Surfdogs and I just finished dinner, my first meal since visiting Chesterfield. Seriously, I was not hungry for over a day and a half. If my exploits don't make you want to saddle up and head out to the wilds of St. Louis county, I don't know what would. Along the same lines, if my exploits make you want to never eat a hot dog again or perhaps go vegan, that's understandable as well. Hell, I was thinking that on the ride home. And while I'm positive I will never, ever, ever attempt the Big Kahuna challenge, I will find my way back to finish out my punch card. 

Eventually. 

After I go for a run. 

Several really long runs. 

All dicking around aside, Surfdogs is well worth the short road trip from St. Louis city and worthy addition to the top shelf hot dog joints we have here in town.

Shades Of A Former Self At South 21

UPDATE:

Several days after posting this review, I was contacted by George Motz who informed me that the original South 21 Drive-In in Charlotte, North Carolina was and is very much open for business. George writes:

"Andrew - Thanks for your praise for my book. It's always great to hear when real burger lovers are using the book to find real burger joints. Unfortunately it sounds like you went to the wrong South 21 in Charlotte. The family business split up a few decades back and the only original location is on Independence Ave. It looks like you visited the Matthews location which is not owned by the Housiadas family. I just spoke to George at South 21 and he said they are doing great and that Fieri was just there and they are going to be on the Food Network next month...

Visit south21drivein and make sure you get to this location next time you are in Charlotte.

George"

I'm quite embarrassed by this error on my part - the research I did indicated the original location was indeed closed, leaving only the Matthews shop. In any event, I will head over to the original on my next trip to Charlotte and thanks to George for keeping me honest.

Kind Regards

amv

ORIGINAL REVIEW:

In his book "Hamburger America" George Motz does an admirable job waxing nostalgic about classic roadside burger joints like South 21, located in Charlotte, North Carolina. I pick through George's book before I travel for work and lug it in the car for road trips with my family. However, I don't covet this book just for the amazing burgers and photography, I also love they way George has captured the stories behind these small, family run businesses. 

The concept of highlighting these gems of Americana, and in many cases the American Dream, is not a new one although it seems to be enjoying a renaissance of sorts. From Guy Fieri's show "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" to Alton Brown's "Feasting on Asphalt" and Adam Richman's "Man v. Food", basic cable offers a regularly scheduled smorgasbord of quirky and uniquely American eateries. Web sites like Roadfood add to the mix, acting as an archive of great road trip eats, frequented by folks who are looking for a bit more than a "Number 2, Large with a Coke".

Interestingly enough the act of cataloguing and making recommendations on American roadfood can be traced back at least in part to Duncan Hines, who out of necessity created a whole category of the foods we should seek out and the ones we should avoid when traveling. In a way, he created the first food blog, and that DNA resides within all food writing and the shows we watch today.

Many times the thread that connects these food resources, people and places are roads like Route 66 that have long since been replaced by our national highway system. We relish sharing the stories of our favorite roadside gems, located on well worn but sometimes forgotten paths. However, when the proverbial rubber its the road, how often do we take the extra time needed to visit these vintage finds? Instead we opt for the convenience of the homogenized taste that is modern America - available with a quick on and off, bus parking and clean bathrooms just up ahead at the next exit - or if you miss that exit - the one right after that.

I had this in mind when I visited the last of the South 21 Drive-in's in Charlotte. Sadly the restaurant George Motz describes has been shuttered since he published his book. Gone is the curb side service, the carhops in black fedora hats and the neon signage that separated South 21 from its competition for over 50 years. 

In its place is a nondescript white building brimming with memorabilia from the original location. The sign on Independence Boulevard does not light up to invite wayward travelers in, instead it shows a graphic of the original sign which sits darkened several miles away. Instead of drive up and in car eating, customers park between the building and a strip mall. Once inside you can view pictures of the classic cars and hot rods that one time filled the car stalls of this Charlotte institution. 

In almost every way, the packaging of this burger joint has changed, even as the actual food packaging and menu remains the same. Instead of being one of the 100 best burger joints in America, it has become an homage to what it once was.

However enough with the lecture, lets get on to the food.

 

The Dog:

To start I opted for a hot dog complete with a house made chili, mustard and a healthy addition of raw onions. The chili was a great partner for the dog, consisting almost completely of loose meat and containing just enough spice. All in all it was a well rounded dog that held up to its toppings and lasted all of about 5 bites. Being the south the bun was fresh from the bag and not steamed or warmed on a flat top. All in all it was a good drive-in dog. 

What was missing from this dog? Slaw. We are in North Carolina folks, where is the slaw dog?

The Burger:

The signature burger at 21 South is the Super Boy - two 4 oz beef patties, mustard, onions, lettuce and tomato with a pickle speared through the top, which my brother (whom you might remember from my post Matt vs. Food) gamely ordered and took down like a champ. But as you can see, he was duly impressed by my order (pictured above and below), the 21 Xpress Special.

Consisting of three 4 oz beef patties, mustard, onions, lettuce and tomato, the Xpress Special towered over the Super Boy - a monster pile of beef resting atop a fistful of roughage. 

Sizable? Yes. Tasty? Well, its easy for me to say that this is not one of the 100 best burgers in America. 

The veggies seemed old and wilted for the volume of business South 21 does. With that much turnover you would expect crisp lettuce. A bad tomato in the late fall can be expected, but a crisp bed of lettuce would have made for a fantastic foundation to this burger. Instead of a crisp snap to break up the sandwich, it was hard to tell where the bun stopped and the lettuce began.

The patties are all beef, sourced from the same butcher for over 45 years, and cooked to well, which for their thinness is probably unavoidable. The burger is charred, but does not come close to that of a good smashed burger, which in all honesty was what I was expecting. Caramelization is so important to a burger and these patties were missing it. All told, it was a pretty standard burger - again - hardly one of the 100 best in America. 

With all due respect Mr. Motz, South 21 is not what it used to be.

The Takedown:

In the end I think what made South 21 so very standard was not the food, its clear that over 50 years, the owners of South 21 have found a formula that works well for them. For me, what is missing is the experience; the neon, the uniforms and the throwback to a car culture that is sadly long gone. In its place is a shadow of what once was, a great burger joint. 

For the kind folks of Charlotte, I'm sure they are happy that some vestige of their burger culture remains. The pictures and the packaging mean something to them and for this I am sure they are grateful. Sadly they left me wanting the real deal, not full size photographs and scale models.

I am positive the same 21 Xpress Special, served in wax paper and sitting on a tray hanging from the window of my old 1997 M-Edition Miata would be an almost religious burger experience. I can imagine visiting on a Saturday night, hanging out in the glow of neon and communing with a killer burger. And that burger would be great, because the place that it was served was so special it could not help but make a standard burger a fantastic one.

Tower Grove Park Fail Dog

For several years I was lucky enough to work at the MetLife Building in New York. Mind you, this was not the former Pan Am Building that Godzilla wrecked, but the actual MetLife Tower that sits at the entrance of Madison Square Park. At lunch time I would take the elevator down the 22 floors from my office to the street, cross into the park and then make my way over to my favorite dirty water dog cart at the far corner near Broadway and 26th street.

With two dogs (Sabrett's topped with mustard, kraut and onions in sauce, wrapped in napkins) in one hand and soda in the other, I would head back to 23rd street to find a bench near the statue of James Madison where I could enjoy my lunch, take in the views of the Flatiron Building and watch folks making their way to the subway for places other. 

The idea of the hot dog cart is one that is close to my heart. I love the idea of setting up shop where foot traffic is best and carving out a space that the locals expect you to be. As a drummer I'm intrigued by the internal rhythm that the best vendors seem to have as they construct a dog - the tap of a set of stainless steel tongs against the cart before grabbing up a bun and depositing it on a napkin. Tap again and then dip quickly into the cart to grab a dog. The tap of a the mustard bottle before a quick line is drawn onto the dog. Continue for other toppings (no ketchup - please) until the dog is handed over and you are on your way. 

While I no longer work in the city, I still love the idea of the park hot dog cart and I was very excited to see the familiar shape of a cart near the wading pool in Tower Grove Park. As I made my way over to the cart I thought about how I had had this idea since moving into the neighborhood but could never get my wife to agree to investing in my vision. From the farmers market to the massive kickball games that dominate the park year around, the right cart could make a killing, especially if it focused on quality ingredients and developed a friendly rapport with the locals.

Operating under the name "The Park Place 1868", the cart pays tribute to the year Henry Shaw donated the park to the city of St. Louis. Customers are greeted warmly by the carts owners, who recently invested in the cart and license to operate in the park after being laid off from work.

Again, I have to stress, this is the very idea I've discussed with my wife - take the severance from being laid off and investing part of it in a hot dog cart - but I digress.

After discussing their new business venture for a moment, I asked the owners what their specialty was after looking over the menu of dogs and burgers. They replied that they were still getting organized but suggested that I try one of their dogs topped with a home made salsa. I asked if the dog was only dressed in salsa and the man behind the grill said that is how he would have it, which is good enough for a hot dog guy like me.

The gentleman moved to the attached grill, an accoutrement that I've seen on other carts, but usually as a supplement to a flat top griddle or water bath for the dogs. As they were just starting up and were also serving burgers, it makes sense to have the grill as a heat source. The set up is not how I would do things, but my cart would have homemade mustard and kraut as well, so its not really fair to make the comparison between an actual cart and the one I think about on my commute home on bad days.

In short order a thick red dog was deposited on a bun with some salsa riding shotgun on the side. I paid the couple and headed into the park to contemplate this park dog, adding salsa as I walked. Stopping to take a bite, I was immediately taken aback by the mix of dog and bun, which had quickly become soggy from the salsa.

However, that was not the most pressing issue with this dog, that honor is reserved for the dog itself, which was barely warm and was totally devoid of the required snap that a hot dog casing should make when bitten. Mostly I was worried about the temperature of the dog, which would seem to indicate this meal would be better off divested of the salsa and bun, then cut up and placed on a paper plate for a child to eat. 

Next to adorning a hot dog with ketchup, serving it cold is the greatest crime that can be perpetrated on this hot dog customer.

I returned to my family with a joyless look on my face and a half eaten hot dog in one hand. Having waited years for this moment, I knew that the Tower Grove hot dog cart was a bust in its current incarnation.

I take no pride in presenting my issues with this dog. Instead I feel that I'm doing the owners a favor with my review as they work out the kinks of starting up their cart business. The negatives are what they are, so I will instead focus on what can be improved, and I hope some of these ideas are considered.

1. Simplify your menu. You are a hod dog cart - lose the burgers. Besides the issues of keeping raw meat at a safe temperature, I can't imagine that they will be good after sitting on a grill for extended periods.
2. Grilled hot dogs should have grill marks. It appears my dog was kept warm, or close to warm, on the upper rack of the grill up to the point that it ended on the bun. If you are going to hold product here, move it over the flame, give it some char and then serve it.
3. Providing a home made salsa is not a bad idea. I know its hard to judge the heat tolerance of most people, but the salsa could use a little more bite to complement the dog. Also, think about the extra liquid your salsa sits in and how you are serving it because when it is applied to the dog, its turning the bun into a soggy mess.
4. Develop your shtick. By this I am not encouraging you to delve into hucksterism - I am suggesting that you develop that rhythm I was discussing at the beginning of this review. As much as you are providing a service to folks looking for a quick snack on the go, you are also tapping into a sense of nostalgia. Both of you seemed taken aback when I suggested you look into the Hot Dog University, but I was not kidding or making small talk. To sell dogs you have to hustle, its a good idea to learn from folks who have already figured that out.

I do honestly wish the folks at The Park Place 1868 the best of luck as they get up and running - the idea of a Tower Grove hot dog cart is a great one. I look forward to watching you develop, but for now I have to say that you are not a recommended hot dog stop here in St. Louis. Hopefully over time that will change.

Amuse Bouche For September 16th, 2009

• As I watch a Coca-Cola tractor trailer try to back into my buildings loading dock, I'm reminded that I recently read that the Coca-Cola Chief called the idea of a Soda-Tax ‘Outrageous’. " My favorite line has to be “I have never seen it work where a government tells people what to eat and what to drink,” Kent said, responding to an audience question at the Rotary Club of Atlanta. “If it worked, the Soviet Union would still be around." Uh boy. That's a good tact to take with a public obsessed with the hand slapping of a backwards hillbilly, er, I mean health care. Also, haven't we had a food pyramid for a half century?
• The Novice Foodie hits up Acero and uses on of my favorite ways of trying expensive restaurants, the prix fixe menu. As I mentioned via Twitter, I ate my way around NYC's best restaurants with the use of prix fixe menus for many years. I'm also a fan of Acero, where I spent my 33rd birthday with friends and enjoyed one of the best meals I've ever had here in St. Louis. Recommended.
• Our mission is to facilitate, encourage and document the consumption of a Cheeseburger on every named peak on the planet - 'Summit Cheeseburger' Documents the Consumption of Cheeseburgers on Every Peak. I'm left to ask, "really?" With the cost of a Mt. Everest summit ranging between 50,000 and 60,000 USD, is it only a matter of time until we see a bobble headed King attempting a summit with a Whopper in hand and sans oxygen?
• Via Stand Up with Pete Dominick and Citizens for Responsibility and Ethics in Washington (CREW), a review of the 15 most corrupt members of Congress. File it under "All your heroes are whores" and I'll get back to wondering what kind of world my son is inheriting.
• I've been planning a trip out of Surf Dogs, deep in St. Louis county, to try a novel idea - the Pup Sampler. Mini-dogs dressed just like their full size twins. Great idea. At the same time I terrified of the Hamburger in Paradise vibe they are going for. Hopefully the dogs will compensate for the anticipated decor. I'm keeping an open mind, but it closes a bit every time I visit their site.

Amuse Bouche For September 14th, 2009

• Sam Calagione of the Dogfish Head Brewery wants to spit in your beer.
• Excited that a second Pi location is scheduled to open in the Central West End the day before Thanksgiving.
• The jury is still out regarding the new pizza place opening at the old TFA shop - corner of Wyoming and South Grand. There was a sign in the window stating "National Pizza, thinking outside the square". The sign is gone and construction is ongoing. Interestingly enough I've seen 2 dudes sporting Dewey's tee shirts in the area - that is just blatant rumormongering though.
• Alex Hozven of the Cultured Pickle Shop talks with Lynne Rossetto Kasper about the realm of pickling.
• Also from this weeks Splendid Table, the BLT Cocktail, or as I am now calling it, "The Official Morning Beverage of the Tour de Moose".
• A Hamburger Today asks "What's Your Favorite Burger Size?"
• Gourmet Magazine showcases the recipe for some great looking corn dogs, kudos for leaving the ketchup out of the picture.

Andrew And Reis Take On Five Guys And Their Burgers And Fries

General Housekeeping:

Its been some time since I've sat down and posted for this site, but for good reason. Since my last update on March 20th, I've been getting ready for the birth of my son, Reis Andrew Veety and getting used to life with a baby. While I have been neglecting this site, I have been busy posting updates to our family site at Three Its A Magic Number.

Two months into this adventure, my wife and I have been out and about, visiting our favorite restaurants and antiquing, which along with hanging out with friends, have always been our primary past times. We've also been plugging around the kitchen and grill, trying to figure out how to cook and experiment with the great meals that we've enjoyed sharing with friends and readers over the years while bending to the demands of a super cute 10 week old.

Its been an adventure, but I'm happy to report that in my absence I've continued to work with some of my favorites, including burgers and backyard BBQ. I've even gotten quite good at a new pizza style - pizza bianca - in addition to working some more with Chicago deep dish and a giant calzone the size of a large pizza bent back on itself.

Recent Pizzas:

Pizza Bianca with a chard and kale pesto, summer squash and zucchini carpaccio and shallot.

Pizza Bianca with roasted tomato and red peppers, artichoke heats, baby spinach and olive oil.

Veggie Chicago style deep dish with a friends top notch home-brew - a tasty "My Neighbor Is A Dirty Pirate Hooker" ale.

From the grill:

Lemon pepper chickens on ginger ale cans, smoked over apple wood.

Exploded Jucy Lucy's waiting for a veggie Jucy Lucy to warm up. Veggie Lucy, how depressing.

The Main Event:

Now that we are back out and about, I'm ready to refocus on exploring the best eats that St. Louis has to offer. Also, if the road trips Sara and I used to take around the country exploring food and visiting with friends and family was fun, it will be even better with Reis in tow. I'm excited to get started, so lets.

Out of the box I wanted to focus on a recent addition to the St. Louis county landscape, Five Guys Burgers and Fries. I've been reading about Five Guys for some time on my favorite burger blogs (A Hamburger Today, Hamburger America and Road Food) and I've waited and waited for one to show up in St. Louis. Five Guys seems to polarize folks into two camps - fans and haters. The fans rave about the quality of the burger and the extensive choice of toppings. Haters focus on the greasiness of the burger, how they are only cooked to well done and how average they are compared to other burgers. 

I have to think that the complaint about the overall averageness of the Five Guys burger has to stem from the fact that they are still expanding across the United States, and the word of mouth is not jiving with the actual experience. Anything short of magical turns out to be a disappointment worth complaining about, or so it would seem from my reading.

Before actually trying for myself, I suggested Jeff Lash (intrepid road warrior and sometimes guest poster) try Five Guys on a recent trip to Philadelphia. Jeff did indeed make a stop and forwarded me this picture of a sad burger at Five Guys, taken with a very capable iPhone camera. 

Jeff indicated he was in the "average" camp. Photographic evidence in hand, I was beginning to think that Five Guys would be a loss. I also wondered where this burgers friends were, seeing only ketchup and some wilted lettuce. Then I remembered a trip to Pam's Chicago Style Hot Dogs that Jeff and I took last fall, and this burgers accompaniments match up pretty well with the dressing of his hot dogs then.

Still, condiments and personal preference aside, this was one sloppy and poorly constructed burger.

So, with Reis, Sara and Jeff Lash's family in tow, we headed out into St. Louis Country to see if Jeff's experience was the standard or the norm for Five Guys and their burgers... 

Babies waiting on burgers while parents munch on peanuts.

The Burger:

A far cry from Jeff's experience, I decked out my first Five Guys with bacon, mayo, mustard, ketchup, lettuce, grilled onion, pickles and raw jalapeno. When accompanied by friends, the burger becomes much more appealing. It also helped that the St. Louis version appeared to be assembled by a competent person, where as the Philadelphia version really looked like a real life "Whammyburger".

While the burger was cooked to well, it was still moist and had some great caramelization from the grill. The patties played well with others, especially the crispness of the pickle and the biting heat of the jalapeno pepper, which in its raw state resembled the color green usually reserved for the Chicago style hot dog. 

The bun was toasted on a grill before assembly and seemed capable of absorbing any grease thrown off by the burger itself. Truth be told, I don't know what it is with people complaining about greasy burgers anyway. For me, burger happiness is forgoing the napkins and licking juice and grease off your hands and forearms. We are eating burgers here people, when has a neat and tidy burger ever been fun, let alone tasty?

A real treat was the wrapping for this burger. The plain aluminum foil carrier smacks of indifference to the burger inside, however for me, it was like getting a perfect Christmas present wrapped only in newspaper. Humble in appearance, it puts the focus on the burger.  Utilitarian in purpose, it kept the burger warm longer than wax paper ever could, which seemed perfect for take out.

In general, I did not find the burger overly greasy, instead I found it a step above your traditional fast food fare. Is it a great burger? Probably not, instead it rates about even with Johnny Rockets or Red Robin. Does it far outshine most of its fast food/national competitors in the St. Louis area? Without a doubt, and at the price, I would drive past the gobs of chains that litter St. Louis and seek out one of the several stores that have popped up around 270 and deeper into the county. 

However, I do have to scratch my head and wonder why they are not venturing into the city. I've heard rumors of a store opening near Brentwood, but I have not been able to verify that, yet.

The Surprise - A Five Guys Hot Dog:

What you don't read about very often is that Five Guys is also a hot dog shop, selling dogs split down the middle, grilled and then topped with the same toppings as their burgers. A unique take on the hot dog in St. Louis, the dog at Five Guys is more like a hot dog sandwich. 

I covered mine with bacon, grilled onion and relish to complement the all beef dog. Thinking back on it, I should have taken this chance to make a hot dog / dagwood sandwich because the construction of this dog and the vast amount of toppings available lends itself to the idea.

The novelty of this dog also is its major drawback - by making it into a sandwich the bun is called upon to do a duty its just not cut out for. The bun appeared to be steamed and disintegrated quickly into the dog and toppings to make a tasty yet amorphous mess.

I will be back to again to try and make that dagwood dog though. 

The Missing:

The fries. We ordered a large fry which was enough to satisfy 4 adults. The fries are cut naturally with the skin on and fried, then piled into giant styrofoam cups and all around the paper sacks that each order is served in. The fries were not salted when they came out of the fryer, which I think is a mistake. They were also soggy from the oil, indicating that they were cooked poorly. They were a largely forgettable addition to an other wise above average burger night out.

The Verdict:

Put me in the fan camp, but there is lots of room for improvement. Given Jeff's experience in Philadelphia, I worry about quality as these stores melt into the local landscape. Kudo's for having malt vinegar for the fries, but shame on you for the actual fries. Kudo's for joining us here in St. Louis, but shame on you for ignoring the city. 

I will be back though, because the burger, while cooked to well done, it also well above the average.

(For the record, Reis slept though most of this meal. That's good, because if he had been fussing, chances are he would have been covered in burger juice and condiments.)

Matt vs. Food

I was lucky to have my brother Matt and my future brother in law Chris in town for a visit recently. 

We pretty much ate and drank from the moment they got off the plane from North Carolina until they left three days later, starting off with some outstanding sushi at Tani Sushi Bistro in Clayton. For the midwest, Tani somehow manages to get fish that is of a better quality than I can normally find around town. 

Standouts at Tani include the sashimi, the dragon ball, a collection of inventive rolls (sadly many include cream cheese which continues to confuse me) and a real treat - the hot rock - served in a thick bowl and accompanied with thinly sliced raw beef in a soy, garlic, ginger and yuzu. The beef cooks directly on the stone in seconds and is a perfect foil to the sushi.

I took the guys to the City Diner for breakfast the next day and to discuss what we would end up doing during their visit. After a half hour of fruitless discussion, my brother suggested that a eating tour of St. Louis might be in order. 

I was into the idea of a tour of my favorite places here in town, however I had no desire to actually complete such a task myself. I let him know that if he felt up to it, he would be eating alone for the most part and that when in doubt, I would be ordering for him.

Lucky for everyone my brother is hungry, brave and willing to entertain his big brother - and what follows is a minute to minute and bite to bite recap of Matt vs. Food - St. Louis Edition.

09:43:46 AM - City Diner - St. Louis Missouri

The plot is hatched and the day is full of possibilities. I kick Matt's day off with a slinger - two eggs with sausage and hash browns, topped with chili and cheese. Friends recommended that the City Diner slinger should be topped with mustard as well. From the way Matt devoured the dish - I can only assume it was a good addition.

The mere mortals amongst us enjoyed BLT's and The Southsider - eggs, biscuits and gravy with hash browns.

Fortified on sturdy carbs from breakfast we headed out to get Matt the St. Louis eating adventure that he demanded, nay deserved, for flying in to spend the weekend with me.

11:37:56 AM - Woofie's - St. Louis Missouri

I last visited Woofie's in November and I reviewed and contrasted Chicago style and New York style dogs. I suggested the Chili Pie for Matt - a Vienna dog served on a bed of chili, Fritos, onions, pickles and cheese. 

Matt knife and sporking it at Woofies, enjoying each bite a bit to much.

01:22:51 PM - Carl's Drive-In - St. Louis Missouri

I wrote up a long time favorite of mine, Carl's Drive-In, last fall. I can't think of an out of town visitor that I have not tried to bring to Carl's because the burgers are executed so well. Pressed flat on a griddle, the burgers become completely caramelized and for some diners take on a sweet flavor that plays along with the toppings. Matt enjoyed a double cheeseburger with all the fixings and a mug of home made root beer the size of his head.

A few hours and stops in, Matt was motoring along and devouring everything I could put in front of him.

01:48:12 PM - Kolache Factory - St. Louis Missouri

A kolache is a small dough treat filled with any number of meat, vegetable or fruit fillings. The Kolache Factory is a small chain with a shop in St. Louis and serve several dozen varieties of this eastern European treat. 

Matt opted for a Philly Cheesesteak while Chris took a chance with the bbq pork. In hindsight, this seems to be the first time I captured gastronomic distress in my brother.

02:14:53 PM - Ted Drewes Frozen Custard - St. Louis Missouri

Ted Drewes has been serving frozen custard in St. Louis since the 1920's and its likely that no other local location has received as much attention by the national media than it has - the place is known far and wide for its frozen treats. Because of this, "that custard place" is always on the lips of visitors as someplace they would like to stop while they are in town. 

It could be that the massive quantity of cream, eggs and sugar are leading to the serious nature of this picture, however it could be that a concrete from Ted Drewes is nothing to joke about and he's just getting down to spooning that sweet treat into his already filled food hole. 

02:39:47 PM - CC's Depot Dog - Home Depot - St. Louis Missouri

A hot dog from Home Depot? You bet your ass. CC's Depot Dogs can be found nestled by the exit doors of the Kingshighway Home Depot, and they serve up some tasty hot dogs for a price you can't beat for quick lunch - a loaded Chicago style or custom dog will run you about two bucks after tossing a quarter into the tip jar.

Matt "enjoying" a CC's dog in the parking lot, not to mention his third or fourth soft drink of the day. All that sugar - rookie eating tour mistake for sure.

03:12:14 PM - Gus' Pretzels - St. Louis Missouri

Gus' rests in the shadow of the Budweiser brewery and has been making pretzels since the 1920's. With dinner reservations at Modesto for later that evening, I figured that this doughy and salty treat would be perfect for soaking up all the grease and chili Matt had taken down.

Matt Veety - eating machine - he will break you.

10:59:46 AM - Chris' Pancake & Dining - St. Louis Missouri

The next morning we began again, this time at Chris' Pancake & Dining for some much needed breakfast. To my amazement Matt dove right back into the challenge after a nights sleep and healthy constitutional, this time opting for steak and eggs with hash browns. The only issue with his order resulted from his relative unfamiliarity with the menu. When you are offered a side of toast or pancakes at a pancake house, you always, always say pancake. After a quick discussion he indeed have the pancakes.

I joined Matt for the carb load by taking down a stack of pancakes with bacon, eggs, hash browns and a bloody mary. However, to be fair, I didn't eat much the day before and I had just finished running up all 42 floors of the Metropolitan Building for the American Lung Association.

04:41:01 PM - Tin Can Tavern and Grille - St. Louis Missouri

As part of my plans for the weekend, I pulled together a bar crawl around Tower Grove Park with stops at The Royale, Three Monkey's, The Tin Can Tavern and Grille, The Amsterdam Tavern, Tower Pub, Stella Blues, Friendly's and The Blackthorne Pub. 

Matt waited all day to try out the mini corn dogs at The Tin Can and compared their doughy goodness to the classic appetizer called pigs in a blanket - an observation I can't bring myself to argue with.

Keeping up the impressive consumption, Matt didn't hesitate to enjoy a cold PBR with his mini corn dogs, while I enjoyed the opportunity to share my neighborhood and friends with my family.

07:59:49 PM - Stella Blues - St. Louis Missouri

While others faded, Matt saddled up the bar at Stella Blues and took down a basket of onion rings.

Moving into his 48th hour of eating, Matt kept taking his best shot at menu's all over St. Louis. It was an epic showing that left me proud yet concerned about his body's ability to process all that grilled, fried and steamed food. 

10:17:35 PM - The Blackthorne Pub - St. Louis Missouri

Regular readers might remember my post on the Blackthorne Pub, where they serve up Chicago and pan style pizzas in the land of the inedible thin crust pizza topped with provel - St. Louis. The Blackthorne turned out to be the end of Matt's eating tour as well as the bar crawl, which is probably a good thing for all of us.

A group of us destroyed several pizzas in a matter of minutes before retiring for the evening. While we all had a great time, I find myself wishing great piles of vegetables on my brother to help him recover from this eating challenge - because as I was creating this post - I noticed his meals were totally devoid of them. 

Good times - great meals.

Let's never do this again.

Pam's Chicago Style Dogs & More

I had actually heard about Pam's Chicago Style Dogs & More before ever going there. While I didn't know know its name, it was described to me by my wife's obstetrician. We were visiting the doctor and I was discussing how we could make changes to our diet to make sure both Mom and Baby were getting the nutrition and vitamins they needed throughout the pregnancy. 

The doctor listened to me drone on about organic vegetables and grass fed bison from Whole Foods and when I was done said, "I was just in another room with a lady who was telling me about the deep fried Twinkie she had for lunch, you guys are eating fine."

I think it goes without saying the good doctor has yet to discover this site. 

Anyway, a few weeks later I wandered into a small hot dog shop on the eastern section of The Loop to try what the River Front Times readers voted "Best Hot Dog in St. Louis - 2008". I was welcomed by the friendly staff and began the lengthly process of dissecting the menu, which includes a dozen or so hot dogs, and then page after page of "more". 

Arriving at the end of the menu I discovered that I had indeed found the restaurant our doctor had been talking about - an extensive deep fried list of treats that went beyond the fried Twinkie to include Zingers, Ding Dogs, cupcakes and muffins.

However, it is the selection of dogs that brought me to Pam's, not desert. With the help of a few strong stomached friends we managed to work our way though half of the hot dog choices:

Pam's Chicago Style Dog

You can't highlight Chicago in your name of your business (especially in St. Louis) without bringing the goods when it comes to your signature hot dog. The Chicago style dog is as one would expect - a steamed poppy-seeded bun with a Vienna beef hot dog hidden under a bright neon relish, yellow mustard, onions, tomato, celery salt, sport peppers and a pickle spear. The dog itself is true to style and quite tasty, save the tomato which seemed bland, soft and flavorless.

Pam's New York Dog

Much like the New York style dog at Woofies, the New York Dog at Pam's is a midwestern interpretation, or better yet a homage to the east coast dog. However, it is far from the real thing. The New York dog at Pam's is a Vienna Beef dog topped with a brown mustard, sauerkraut and a spicy giardiniera. The addition of giardiniera is a nice touch, but has more to do with Chicago style Italian beef sandwiches and antipasto than a dog from New York. 

Warren's Maxwell Street Polish Sausage

Paying respect to Maxwell Street in Chicago, the Polish Sausage at Pam's tasted like a slice of home to this grandson of Polish immigrants. Featuring a Vienna beef sausage that lives in the sweet spot between a natural cased hot dog and a Polish kielbasa, this dog is topped with yellow mustard, grilled onions and sport peppers. As I enjoy the play of sauerkraut and kielbasa, I had it added as a final touch. Smaczny!

Hot Dogs With Ketchup

Above you'll notice two hot dogs, naked, barren, dressed only in ketchup. To my knowledge, one was a Vienna Beef dog and the other was Pam's Turkey Dog. The menu at Pam's states "Turkey Dog - Served Chicago Style unless you request otherwise". I can only assume that is what happened here. Very sad.

Slaw Dog

The slaw dog at Pam's is a Vienna beef hot dog topped with chili, yellow mustard, onion and a creamy cole slaw. For me, this variation on a southern dog is much closer to the original than the New York dog. The chili is loose meat in a spicy sauce that pairs nicely with the slaw. 

The Pamirito

Saving the most interesting for last we have The Pamirito. Pam's takes a Vienna beef dog and wraps it in a tortilla. The pair are then submerged into the deep frier until its brown and crispy. The fried roll is then topped with onion, tomato, cheese and chili to make the only knife and fork dog that we ran into on the menu. The Pamirito is a treat on par with the Slinger as an example of St. Louis required eating.

You'll notice that I didn't end up getting desert on either of my two recent visits to Pam's. I'll have to run five miles and get an all clear from my primary care physician before my next visit, because that's the only way I'll ever get a chance to experience a deep fried cupcake.

Opinion: Recommended

6016 Delmar Blvd.

St. Louis, Missouri

Best of 2008

This has been a great year of travel and eating, discovering new tools and techniques for cooking, experiencing great slices of Americana and time spent with friends and family. I thought it would be a good idea to capture a few of my favorites for the past year.

A New Perspective Via A New Grill:

Well constructed and sporting thick cast iron grates, this Brinkman grill creates enough smoke and grill marks to turn my back yard into a decent smokehouse. In short order I adjusted to this new tool and turned out top notch whole chickens, ribs, briskets, massive steaks, pizzas and deserts. 

I really like the front loading door which allows you to feed the fire without lifting the lid and losing heat. Maintaining a steady 220 degrees with minor heat management is priceless, but at around $200.00 this grill is a steal. It takes a bit more work than my old gas grill to prep and clean, but you can't beat it as a cooking tool.

Texas Potatoes:

Potato, onion, butter and bacon in a cast iron skillet. From my post "Roasted Garlic Strip Steaks with Texas Potatoes".

Sony DSC-T500 Camera:

In a year of great new toys the Sony DSC-T500 camera has been my favorite. Small enough to fit into my pocket with 10.1 megapixels, a 3.5" wide touch screen, HD video recording with stereo mics and a 5X Optical Zoom. I also really like the macro lens which allows me to get great close ups of food for the site. I'm also loving not having to pull out my Nikon D70 in greasy diners. 

The large screen is really bright and eats though the battery in short order. After a month or so of use, I'm thinking a back up battery for this camera might be one of my "Best of 2009".

Float Trip Chicken:

There are few things better in the world than floating down a river with friends, beers and cold picnic chicken. From my post "Float Trip Picnic Chicken".

Tortas In The Park:

From my first "interview" for the site - I exchanged emails with my friend and regular Friday lunch companion Bob Baker as we made Tortas for 50 people on his birthday. He went to great lengths to get all the right ingredients and I was happy to help put together this great sandwich. From my post "Tower Grove Park Tortas".

Crab Boil:

I was so happy when my wife completed her LEED certification in September. We filled the back yard with people and I prepared the crabs the only way I know how - with lots of Old Bay and steamed in Guinness. From my post "Seafood Boil In The Heart of St. Louis". 

The New York Times Columnists:

Many thanks to Maureen Dowd, Tom Friedman and Paul Krugman for the insight, information and entertainment this year.

Llywelyn's Pub Burger:

 

One of my favorite burgers of the past year. From my post "Llywelyn's Pub".

Nunez de Prado Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil:

Happen chance introduced me to this great olive oil as I wandered around Whole Foods this year. It's got a perfect balance for cooking or for dipping bread in. Voted one of the best olive oils in America by Cooks Illustrated, Whole Foods stocks 25 oz. bottles for around 15 dollars. Next to bacon fat, this oil has quickly become my choice fat in the kitchen.

The Salt Lick:

Sure it is for show, but the open pit at The Salt Lick was a treat to see, and the folks were super nice and let me ram around in their kitchen. From my post "The Salt Lick Barbeque".

"My Life in France" by Julia Child

Probably the best book I read this year. In it Julia tells the story of learning to live, eat and cook in France. Julia lived an incredible life and her love of slow-food makes me excited to get into the kitchen.

Carl's Drive-In:

Old school burgers smashed on a flat top griddle. From my post "Carl's Drive-In".

Rear Window Defrosters and Heated Seats:

I said goodbye to my 1997 Mazda Miata M-Edition this fall. While this car was always fun to drive, it was never a great every day automobile. Instead I opted for some features the Miata never had - rear window defrosters and heated seats - attached to an Acura RL. Unceremoniously named an "old man's car" by my wife, it has made the commute into work one of the best parts of my day. Why - because I can see out the back window in the winter without risking a broken convertible top.

Woofies New York vs Chicago Showdown:

This past fall was all about hot dogs, Chicago style. From my post "New York vs Chicago Style Hot Dogs".

Fakesgiving Trisket:

I'm still not sure why I wanted to stuff a turkey into a perfectly cooked brisket, but I did it. From my post "Trisket - A Turkey Inside a Brisket".

Charlie The Butcher:

After a particularly good edition of "Meet The Press", I would send an email to Tim Russert of NBC News to congratulate him on that weeks content. To try to elicit a reply from the busy newsman, I would suggest that he reward his staff with beef on weck from Charlie The Butcher in Buffalo, New York. Tim never replied to my emails, but I got a chance to think again about how much his show meant to my Sunday mornings as I enjoyed a sandwich in Buffalo this fall. From my post "Charlie The Butcher's Kitchen".

The Penguin Drive In:

Punk rock music, burgers named after engines and a sweet soda called Cheerwine. From my post "The Penguin Drive-In".

Fatherhood:

Sara and I recently announced that we are pregnant to friends and family, and I launched another blog to document all the events leading up to the arrival of our first child in June of 2009. I think its a given that updates on homemade baby food will require equal billing with burgers and dogs next year.

The Penguin Drive-In

In 1954 Jim and Jean Ballentine purchased an ice cream shop in the Plaza-Midwood neighborhood in Charlotte, North Carolina. Populated with families and craftsman style bungalow homes, The Penguin (locally known as "The Bird") was an anchor of the neighborhood during its hay-day serving ice cream, burgers and hot dogs. 

Over the years Charlotte sprawled into the county and the neighborhood fell into decline. The family run businesses that surrounded The Penguin moved and were replaced with adult entertainment establishments. Business slowed and the local hot spot fell into disrepair, closing its doors in 1999. 

Since that time, interest in rehabbing the neighborhood took hold. Families moved back to the area to rehab homes and a group of punk rock kids took over The Penguin, bringing the business back to life. Today, like in the past, The Penguin is a local hot spot with great food and lines running out the door. 

I've been waiting for some time to visit The Penguin, specifically to try a new favorite of mine, deep fried pickles. I've been hooked on this dish since Sara and I visited Gulf Shores, Alabama on our honeymoon. Whereas the pickles in Alabama were breaded with corn meal, the pickles at The Penguin have a light and thin coating that reminds me of tempura. Served with ranch dressing, the fried pickles were a great pairing for a beer and the local soda, a cherry flavored drink called Cheerwine.

As soon as the pickles were polished off, I dug into The Penguin's Big Block Burger. The Big Block Burger is two beef patties weighing a combined 2/3rd of a pound topped with lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

Finishing off the meal was a Race Track Dog topped with mustard, a loose meat chili, a mayo based cole slaw and chopped onions. 

The most memorable part of this hot dog was the scent of chili and cole slaw that hung low over the table as we ate and made me hesitant to try this dog. However, missing out on this treat would have been a mistake. The cole slaw was light and had a tang that you normally find with a vinegar based slaw. Hidden beneath the dog was a spicy mustard that completes each bite with just a bit of heat. 

A few other treats enjoyed at our lunch at The Penguin:

 

The Tupelo Special - Peanut Butter and Banana on Texas Toast

Thin sliced onion rings with a lonely pickle riding on top.

Opinion: Recommended

1921 Commonwealth Ave

Charlotte, North Carolina 28205

Ted's Charcoal Broiled Hots

At one time there was an old tool shed in the shadow of the Peace Bridge that was used to sell sandwiches to the iron workers constructing the international roadway connecting Buffalo, New York and For Erie, Ontario.

In 1927 the bridge was completed and the building was sold to a young immigrant who had operated a horse drawn hot dog cart in a park near the construction site. 80 years later, that rickety old shack that shook when trains passed is gone. However, over the years that small restaurant serving the western side of Buffalo has grown to eight plus a western location in Tempe, Arizona. 

Known locally as Ted's, Ted's Charcoal Broiled Hots are a Buffalo staple. A hot is a western New York flavor of dog made with a mixture of uncured pork, veal, and beef. Ted's uses this classic recipe as well as all beef dogs. Hots are available in multiple sizes, foot long and regular which are topped with chili, cheese, onion, a sad example of a pickle, Ted's famous hot sauce and much to my chagrin, ketchup. 

At Ted's, hots are charbroiled and turned often with a set of serrated grill forks that cut deep crevices into the dog and natural casing. The open flame method of cooking a hot leaves great grill marks and smoke flavor to complete the base of this hot dog. Well done dogs take on the look of a New Jersey specialty, a ripper, albeit a mildly fried one. 

For me, the snap of a grilled natural casing outshines the boiled dogs that are common in the Chicago Style and is at least as good as a New York dog cooked on a flat top griddle. Adding to the smoky and spicy dog is Ted's famous hot sauce, which if added in quantity will leave you grasping for the nearest loganberry pop. Much like the Beef on Weck, a loganberry drink is a perfect foil for the nitrite bomb served at Ted's. The local beverage stands up to the spice and smoke of the dog in a way that only a loganberry can. (I assume, it seems silly to try to figure out how a Ted's matches with a Coke.)

Sides are plentiful, but I would advise opting for the onion rings which are fried while you wait. Sliced and coated thinly, the onions cook fast and crispy, matching well with a hot from Ted's.

Opinion: Recommended

Nine Locations in Western New York and Arizona

New York vs Chicago Style Hot Dogs

Hidden a short distance off Interstate 170 in St. Louis you will find Woofie's, a Vienna Beef Hall of Fame member serving up Chicago style hot dogs. Unless you work in the area, just getting to Woofie's these days is an adventure given the current construction on Interstate 64. However, seeing the journey though to the end will find you elbow to elbow with both tradesmen and white collar workers at a slim counter, enjoying some of the finest hot dogs in the city.

For over 30 years Woofie's has been serving up an eclectic mix of hot dogs, some classic like the Woolfie Dog and some downright inventive dogs like the Chili Pie and the Coney, a Vienna dog on a seeded bun topped with a slice of American cheese, chili, onion and a pickle. 

 

Gastrointestinal challenges like the Chili Pie aside, I was wondering how the restaurant's flagship dog, the Woofie, stacked up to a Mid-west perception of a New York dog. While I'm sure this establishes my East Coast bias in hot dogs, the Chicago style is without a doubt impressive and I can fully appreciate the adoration this dog receives. 

First up is the Chicago style:

The Chicago style hot dog is built for it's city, for the people that live there and for surviving its weather systems. This is the hot dog that the Mike Ditka would eat on a Saturday Night Live sketch. This is the mid afternoon snack of futures traders at the CBOE. The Chicago dog contains all the major food groups, is here to take on your stomach, and it's brought all of its friends for the fight. The Wolfie Dog is what you would expect from a Hall of Famer, riding deep into the pocket of a seeded bun and covered in a garden including a neon green relish. 

On several occasions my Woofie Dog was served with a knife and fork. This experience reminds me of a meal I enjoyed once with a friend's family, owners of several Italian restaurants. Dining on a plate of pasta one night and perplexed by the act of twirling linguine around a fork, my host pointed at the spoon and said, "Andrew, some Italian's use the spoon...but not the good ones." This is the essence of the Chicago dog. While help is provided, reaching for it is a sign of defeat. Woofie's Dogs are indeed woof'ed sans fork in a manner that is messy but in the end, fulfilling.

The New York Dog:

The New York style dog is also a homage to its fair city. From street vendors and small shops, the New York hot dog is made for transport. Dogs are topped with combination of onion sauce, sauerkraut and mustard, wrapped in paper or a single napkin and eaten on the fly. Even loaded down, a New York dog appears to be perfectly designed for an action figure's kung-fu grip. A New York dog is not here to bullshit with you.

The New York hot dog at Woofie's is delicious. Instead of being steamed, it is cooked on a griddle like the dogs at Grey's Papaya. It comes topped with a spicy mustard and a bed of sauerkraut, sitting there in front of you like a nest on a branch. Alas a New York dog it is not. Instead it is a Mid-western nod to the original, as if Chicago looked at it and said, "there, New York...now you are finished." 

The verdict:

In the end, the Chicago style Woofie Dog wins this throw down of cities and dogs, but it was never really a competition with Chicago's near home field advantage. Either way, I can't help but think that is it the diner who wins, no matter what their cardiologist says. For all I know your doctor might be sitting next to you as you eat. Woofie's is that good.

Opinion: Highly Recommended

1919 Woodson Rd

Overland, MO 

314-426-6291

When Hot Dogs Cost Hundreds

Very often I find myself seeking out American cuisine that transcends region and social structure, foods that are woven into the fabric of our country and rise to the level of equalizer, enjoyed by all, but in our own individual ways. Regionally, there are few items that represent this idea better than the hot dog. 

Be it the perfect union of dog and fruit juice at Gray's Papaya in New York City, the crunch of a deep fried Ripper at Rutt's Hut in New Jersey, the ritual of visiting The Varsity in Atlanta or dogs that are dragged through Chicago's best gardens, I am always seeking out places that are new to me, but are long time standards for locals, foodies and road warriors in the know.

It is with this in mind that I headed to Chicago recently to attend a conference on Information Technology Governance, which happened to be located close to two standout hot dog joints that I missed on my last trip in June. My goal was to attend the conference and then enjoy a dinner of dogs before heading back to St. Louis. I planned to stop first at Hot Doug's and then move on to Superdawg where in car dining still reigns supreme. 

Alas, my plans were interrupted as I was hustling though a dark construction zone about 40 miles outside of Chicago. I was heading back to my hotel with dinner - a coveted Lou Malnati's pizza resting between an Investors Business Daily and Wall Street Journal, covered by a sweat shirt and kept warm by the seat warmers in the passenger seat. With the smell of deep dish wafting though the car and my thoughts turning towards sitting back in my room with a beer and pizza I did not notice a large object in the road. Upon impact it shredded my front tire, banged around the underside of the car for an eternity, sent me into what shoulder there was to be had and the mud left from 9 inches of rain left by Hurricane Ike a few days before. 

The process of extracting my car from that mess took over an hour and included a second tow truck when the first slid into the mud and also got stuck. Back in my hotel room and with my conference plans in doubt I dug into that Lou Malnati's pie in a joyless state that did not give it justice (hence no review), but with a hearty appreciation for whomever invented the heated seat, which kept my pie hot though the whole ordeal. 

I spent the next day sitting around a repair shop having my car checked out and waiting for them to locate the tires I needed to match my existing ones. As morning turned to afternoon, I slowly gave up on making it to my conference and instead grabbed my GPS to see if I could find lunch, specifically a hot dog, within walking distance of where I was stuck. 

I ended up at a chain called Portillo's that in many respects reminds me of a Fuddrucker's where the burgers have been swapped for Chicago style dogs. The size of a small warehouse with a two lane drive though wrapping around the back, the place was busy for 1:30PM in the afternoon, which for most is long past lunchtime. 

There are 40+ Portillo's now, however the first opened as a stand called "The Dog House" in 1963. While they have expanded to a minor restaurant empire you can't tell by the hot dogs which were excellent. I started with "the works" that met my recommended daily intake of vegetables and nitrates. Loaded down with sauerkraut, mustard, onion, sweet pickle relish, a dill pickle spear, tomato, peppers, and celery salt, this dog is a challenge to fit into your mouth. All this rides inside a steamed poppy seed bun which holds up to the task of transport from wrapper to waiting stomach. It is worth the effort and very filling, living up to the nickname this style of hot dog has, "The Depression Sandwich", earned in 1929.

The misfortune of the past 24 hours began to vanish, but was not complete until I moved along to a chili dog with onions. 

I rarely partake of the chili dog for reasons that range from intestinal fortitude to domestic tranquility, but I am a long time fan. I've even been known to root friends on when they opt for this special dog. Without the salad that perches atop a Chicago dog, the quality of the Portillo's hot dog has a chance to shine, especially the natural casing which has a pleasant snap when bitten. The chili reminded me of the style you can find at Skyline in Cincinnati and it played well with the added onion. Again, the poppy seeded bun was sturdy enough to carry the dog and fixings without becoming overly soggy or breaking. 

Back in St. Louis, I am happy that the damage to my car was not worse. The materials and slides from the conference will find their way to me via Fed-ex over the next week or so. Finding Portillio's was a stroke of luck, but I am not done with the city by the lake. I will be back sooner rather than later, Superdawg, and I'll be hungry.

Opinion: Recommended

Multiple Locations in Illinois, Indiana and California