Andrew Mark Veety

Take Me Out To The Ballpark (Pizza)

Before I moved to Queens, I would travel from upstate New York to Long Island for marathon band practices and recording sessions with my band The Boys' Star Library. We worked hard throughout the day, often forgetting to consume anything save for cans of Milwaukee's Best Light and drags on heinous Parliament cigarettes between songs.

However, once we were played out we would venture to one of the thousands of strip malls that line the Island to a pizza shop that served up the most unique pie I've ever eaten - the roast beef pizza. Simply put it was a pizza topped with a thick pan gravy, thinly sliced roast beef and decadent dollops of creamy mashed potatoes. Ringing the register at over thirty dollars a pie, we would split the bill and use the hearty dose of carbs and protein to recover and fortify us for another day of making obscure indie rock music in a suburban basement.

The roast beef pie crept back into my mind after all these years after taking down a seasonal specialty pizza called "The Ballpark" at Dewey's, a midwest pizza chain based out of Ohio.

Served only in April, The Ballpark is a pizza topped with a spicy mustard, mozzarella cheese, sauerkraut, caramelized red onions and a spicy smoked sausage.

Paying homage to a ball park dog, The Ballpark reminds me little of the sad hot dogs that can be found at Busch Stadium here in St. Louis. Instead I think it has more in common with a Maxwell Street Polish Sausage, a specialty dog from Chicago.

The dough for this pie is standard for Dewey's - light and airy with what appears to be a light wash of oil on the bone. I've yet to run across another dough like Dewey's, which reminds me of a pub house pretzel. 

In the place of tomato sauce we find a classic spicy yellow mustard that beyond reminding me of a healthy dose of Gulden's, was largely unforgettable. 

Next up was a layer of mozzarella cheese to provide a kind of base for the dense toppings to come. I felt like the mozzarella provided little to the pizza and I could have done without it all together. Besides melding in places with the other toppings, it did little to enhance the pie and I was left wondering why it was there in the first place.

After the cheese is a bed of sauerkraut, covering the pizza from edge to edge and throwing off an aroma that dominated the onions and sausage. While any of the three toppings could play lead on a pizza, for me sauerkraut is the marque player in this dish. I especially liked how the chew of the Dewey's crust and the sauerkraut complemented each other - again the pretzel-like nature of the dough seemed right at home with the fermented cabbage.

On top of the sauerkraut came less than generous slices of sausage given the linage that this pizza is derived from. The Maxwell Street Polish Sausage is dense, meaty, flows over the bun and requires the eater to perform the "Philly Lean" so as to not get the dog all over their clothes. I so wanted the sausage to stand out in this pizza, alas it did not. While this is not to say it was bad, it just could have been so much better.

Lastly we have a sparse layer of caramelized red onions which were tasty but to few in number than to provide some color and residual sweetness every fifth bite or so. Again I was disappointed, anyone who has seen a vendor serving up Maxwell Streets will recall that their flat top almost always contains a monstrous pile of onions, towering over the sausages. Onions, you are missed on this pizza.

For me, I would suggest foregoing the cheese and making a larger investment in the sausage and onion. I think this pizza demands it. Missed opportunities aside, The Ballpark gets cut some slack because its unique and holds a limited engagement on the menu. It says welcome spring and gets me in the mood for nine dollar beers at the stadium. 

Get yourself one before its gone till the 2011 season. 

Naturally Risen - Or As I Like To Call It - Pizza Porn

NATURALLY RISEN from michael evans on Vimeo.

Tower Grove Park Fail Dog

For several years I was lucky enough to work at the MetLife Building in New York. Mind you, this was not the former Pan Am Building that Godzilla wrecked, but the actual MetLife Tower that sits at the entrance of Madison Square Park. At lunch time I would take the elevator down the 22 floors from my office to the street, cross into the park and then make my way over to my favorite dirty water dog cart at the far corner near Broadway and 26th street.

With two dogs (Sabrett's topped with mustard, kraut and onions in sauce, wrapped in napkins) in one hand and soda in the other, I would head back to 23rd street to find a bench near the statue of James Madison where I could enjoy my lunch, take in the views of the Flatiron Building and watch folks making their way to the subway for places other. 

The idea of the hot dog cart is one that is close to my heart. I love the idea of setting up shop where foot traffic is best and carving out a space that the locals expect you to be. As a drummer I'm intrigued by the internal rhythm that the best vendors seem to have as they construct a dog - the tap of a set of stainless steel tongs against the cart before grabbing up a bun and depositing it on a napkin. Tap again and then dip quickly into the cart to grab a dog. The tap of a the mustard bottle before a quick line is drawn onto the dog. Continue for other toppings (no ketchup - please) until the dog is handed over and you are on your way. 

While I no longer work in the city, I still love the idea of the park hot dog cart and I was very excited to see the familiar shape of a cart near the wading pool in Tower Grove Park. As I made my way over to the cart I thought about how I had had this idea since moving into the neighborhood but could never get my wife to agree to investing in my vision. From the farmers market to the massive kickball games that dominate the park year around, the right cart could make a killing, especially if it focused on quality ingredients and developed a friendly rapport with the locals.

Operating under the name "The Park Place 1868", the cart pays tribute to the year Henry Shaw donated the park to the city of St. Louis. Customers are greeted warmly by the carts owners, who recently invested in the cart and license to operate in the park after being laid off from work.

Again, I have to stress, this is the very idea I've discussed with my wife - take the severance from being laid off and investing part of it in a hot dog cart - but I digress.

After discussing their new business venture for a moment, I asked the owners what their specialty was after looking over the menu of dogs and burgers. They replied that they were still getting organized but suggested that I try one of their dogs topped with a home made salsa. I asked if the dog was only dressed in salsa and the man behind the grill said that is how he would have it, which is good enough for a hot dog guy like me.

The gentleman moved to the attached grill, an accoutrement that I've seen on other carts, but usually as a supplement to a flat top griddle or water bath for the dogs. As they were just starting up and were also serving burgers, it makes sense to have the grill as a heat source. The set up is not how I would do things, but my cart would have homemade mustard and kraut as well, so its not really fair to make the comparison between an actual cart and the one I think about on my commute home on bad days.

In short order a thick red dog was deposited on a bun with some salsa riding shotgun on the side. I paid the couple and headed into the park to contemplate this park dog, adding salsa as I walked. Stopping to take a bite, I was immediately taken aback by the mix of dog and bun, which had quickly become soggy from the salsa.

However, that was not the most pressing issue with this dog, that honor is reserved for the dog itself, which was barely warm and was totally devoid of the required snap that a hot dog casing should make when bitten. Mostly I was worried about the temperature of the dog, which would seem to indicate this meal would be better off divested of the salsa and bun, then cut up and placed on a paper plate for a child to eat. 

Next to adorning a hot dog with ketchup, serving it cold is the greatest crime that can be perpetrated on this hot dog customer.

I returned to my family with a joyless look on my face and a half eaten hot dog in one hand. Having waited years for this moment, I knew that the Tower Grove hot dog cart was a bust in its current incarnation.

I take no pride in presenting my issues with this dog. Instead I feel that I'm doing the owners a favor with my review as they work out the kinks of starting up their cart business. The negatives are what they are, so I will instead focus on what can be improved, and I hope some of these ideas are considered.

1. Simplify your menu. You are a hod dog cart - lose the burgers. Besides the issues of keeping raw meat at a safe temperature, I can't imagine that they will be good after sitting on a grill for extended periods.
2. Grilled hot dogs should have grill marks. It appears my dog was kept warm, or close to warm, on the upper rack of the grill up to the point that it ended on the bun. If you are going to hold product here, move it over the flame, give it some char and then serve it.
3. Providing a home made salsa is not a bad idea. I know its hard to judge the heat tolerance of most people, but the salsa could use a little more bite to complement the dog. Also, think about the extra liquid your salsa sits in and how you are serving it because when it is applied to the dog, its turning the bun into a soggy mess.
4. Develop your shtick. By this I am not encouraging you to delve into hucksterism - I am suggesting that you develop that rhythm I was discussing at the beginning of this review. As much as you are providing a service to folks looking for a quick snack on the go, you are also tapping into a sense of nostalgia. Both of you seemed taken aback when I suggested you look into the Hot Dog University, but I was not kidding or making small talk. To sell dogs you have to hustle, its a good idea to learn from folks who have already figured that out.

I do honestly wish the folks at The Park Place 1868 the best of luck as they get up and running - the idea of a Tower Grove hot dog cart is a great one. I look forward to watching you develop, but for now I have to say that you are not a recommended hot dog stop here in St. Louis. Hopefully over time that will change.

Amuse Bouche For September 11th, 2009

Another day, another group of disjointed things I've been reading and doing....

• Excited that I'm developing a new concept around work day lunch time eats, angered that I forgot my camera when I left for work, again.
• Lamenting that it looks like I will miss American IPA night at The Good Pie as well as Hop In The City this year.
• S. 1650: A bill to amend the Richard B. Russell National School Lunch Act to improve the purchase and processing of healthful commodities for use in school meal programs has entered the Senate. More at Slow Food USA
• Really enjoying the September 21st edition of "The Nation" which is dedicated to essays on Food Democracy, with essays by Alice Waters and Michael Pollan among others. Complementary to a recent article in Time on the real cost of cheap food.
• Sauce Magazine takes a tour of some of the best fries in St. Louis, manages to forget the amazing fries at The Dubliner. They make up for it with the recipe for the Subcontinental at The Royale on page 30 of the Wine, Beer & Spirits supplemental to the September print copy. While I almost always avoid cheese sandwiches, I'm oddly intrigued by the photo of the meatloaf melt at Jennifer’s Pharmacy. I blame Jonathan Pollack's tasty photo for my change in attitude.
• A year ago today I juxtaposed George Washington, Geroge W Bush and Sarah Palin. 8 years ago I walked out of my office to grab some coffee, looked up Broadway and saw the WTC on fire. I'm also still unsure if I should develop the roll of film I took that morning as I walked out of the city to Queens.
• Sure it works on the coasts, but will my Son get beat up when I pack him his first Bento Box for a school lunch?

Best of 2008

This has been a great year of travel and eating, discovering new tools and techniques for cooking, experiencing great slices of Americana and time spent with friends and family. I thought it would be a good idea to capture a few of my favorites for the past year.

A New Perspective Via A New Grill:

Well constructed and sporting thick cast iron grates, this Brinkman grill creates enough smoke and grill marks to turn my back yard into a decent smokehouse. In short order I adjusted to this new tool and turned out top notch whole chickens, ribs, briskets, massive steaks, pizzas and deserts. 

I really like the front loading door which allows you to feed the fire without lifting the lid and losing heat. Maintaining a steady 220 degrees with minor heat management is priceless, but at around $200.00 this grill is a steal. It takes a bit more work than my old gas grill to prep and clean, but you can't beat it as a cooking tool.

Texas Potatoes:

Potato, onion, butter and bacon in a cast iron skillet. From my post "Roasted Garlic Strip Steaks with Texas Potatoes".

Sony DSC-T500 Camera:

In a year of great new toys the Sony DSC-T500 camera has been my favorite. Small enough to fit into my pocket with 10.1 megapixels, a 3.5" wide touch screen, HD video recording with stereo mics and a 5X Optical Zoom. I also really like the macro lens which allows me to get great close ups of food for the site. I'm also loving not having to pull out my Nikon D70 in greasy diners. 

The large screen is really bright and eats though the battery in short order. After a month or so of use, I'm thinking a back up battery for this camera might be one of my "Best of 2009".

Float Trip Chicken:

There are few things better in the world than floating down a river with friends, beers and cold picnic chicken. From my post "Float Trip Picnic Chicken".

Tortas In The Park:

From my first "interview" for the site - I exchanged emails with my friend and regular Friday lunch companion Bob Baker as we made Tortas for 50 people on his birthday. He went to great lengths to get all the right ingredients and I was happy to help put together this great sandwich. From my post "Tower Grove Park Tortas".

Crab Boil:

I was so happy when my wife completed her LEED certification in September. We filled the back yard with people and I prepared the crabs the only way I know how - with lots of Old Bay and steamed in Guinness. From my post "Seafood Boil In The Heart of St. Louis". 

The New York Times Columnists:

Many thanks to Maureen Dowd, Tom Friedman and Paul Krugman for the insight, information and entertainment this year.

Llywelyn's Pub Burger:

 

One of my favorite burgers of the past year. From my post "Llywelyn's Pub".

Nunez de Prado Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil:

Happen chance introduced me to this great olive oil as I wandered around Whole Foods this year. It's got a perfect balance for cooking or for dipping bread in. Voted one of the best olive oils in America by Cooks Illustrated, Whole Foods stocks 25 oz. bottles for around 15 dollars. Next to bacon fat, this oil has quickly become my choice fat in the kitchen.

The Salt Lick:

Sure it is for show, but the open pit at The Salt Lick was a treat to see, and the folks were super nice and let me ram around in their kitchen. From my post "The Salt Lick Barbeque".

"My Life in France" by Julia Child

Probably the best book I read this year. In it Julia tells the story of learning to live, eat and cook in France. Julia lived an incredible life and her love of slow-food makes me excited to get into the kitchen.

Carl's Drive-In:

Old school burgers smashed on a flat top griddle. From my post "Carl's Drive-In".

Rear Window Defrosters and Heated Seats:

I said goodbye to my 1997 Mazda Miata M-Edition this fall. While this car was always fun to drive, it was never a great every day automobile. Instead I opted for some features the Miata never had - rear window defrosters and heated seats - attached to an Acura RL. Unceremoniously named an "old man's car" by my wife, it has made the commute into work one of the best parts of my day. Why - because I can see out the back window in the winter without risking a broken convertible top.

Woofies New York vs Chicago Showdown:

This past fall was all about hot dogs, Chicago style. From my post "New York vs Chicago Style Hot Dogs".

Fakesgiving Trisket:

I'm still not sure why I wanted to stuff a turkey into a perfectly cooked brisket, but I did it. From my post "Trisket - A Turkey Inside a Brisket".

Charlie The Butcher:

After a particularly good edition of "Meet The Press", I would send an email to Tim Russert of NBC News to congratulate him on that weeks content. To try to elicit a reply from the busy newsman, I would suggest that he reward his staff with beef on weck from Charlie The Butcher in Buffalo, New York. Tim never replied to my emails, but I got a chance to think again about how much his show meant to my Sunday mornings as I enjoyed a sandwich in Buffalo this fall. From my post "Charlie The Butcher's Kitchen".

The Penguin Drive In:

Punk rock music, burgers named after engines and a sweet soda called Cheerwine. From my post "The Penguin Drive-In".

Fatherhood:

Sara and I recently announced that we are pregnant to friends and family, and I launched another blog to document all the events leading up to the arrival of our first child in June of 2009. I think its a given that updates on homemade baby food will require equal billing with burgers and dogs next year.

Ted's Charcoal Broiled Hots

At one time there was an old tool shed in the shadow of the Peace Bridge that was used to sell sandwiches to the iron workers constructing the international roadway connecting Buffalo, New York and For Erie, Ontario.

In 1927 the bridge was completed and the building was sold to a young immigrant who had operated a horse drawn hot dog cart in a park near the construction site. 80 years later, that rickety old shack that shook when trains passed is gone. However, over the years that small restaurant serving the western side of Buffalo has grown to eight plus a western location in Tempe, Arizona. 

Known locally as Ted's, Ted's Charcoal Broiled Hots are a Buffalo staple. A hot is a western New York flavor of dog made with a mixture of uncured pork, veal, and beef. Ted's uses this classic recipe as well as all beef dogs. Hots are available in multiple sizes, foot long and regular which are topped with chili, cheese, onion, a sad example of a pickle, Ted's famous hot sauce and much to my chagrin, ketchup. 

At Ted's, hots are charbroiled and turned often with a set of serrated grill forks that cut deep crevices into the dog and natural casing. The open flame method of cooking a hot leaves great grill marks and smoke flavor to complete the base of this hot dog. Well done dogs take on the look of a New Jersey specialty, a ripper, albeit a mildly fried one. 

For me, the snap of a grilled natural casing outshines the boiled dogs that are common in the Chicago Style and is at least as good as a New York dog cooked on a flat top griddle. Adding to the smoky and spicy dog is Ted's famous hot sauce, which if added in quantity will leave you grasping for the nearest loganberry pop. Much like the Beef on Weck, a loganberry drink is a perfect foil for the nitrite bomb served at Ted's. The local beverage stands up to the spice and smoke of the dog in a way that only a loganberry can. (I assume, it seems silly to try to figure out how a Ted's matches with a Coke.)

Sides are plentiful, but I would advise opting for the onion rings which are fried while you wait. Sliced and coated thinly, the onions cook fast and crispy, matching well with a hot from Ted's.

Opinion: Recommended

Nine Locations in Western New York and Arizona

Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery

The Finger Lakes are a chain of eleven lakes in the Upstate New York, dotting the landscape that my wife and I grew up in. The lakes are long and deep and reminded early map-makers of the fingers of a hand. 

Because of the lakes' great depth and geography, the area provides cover to over 100 vineyards that flank the shores of Seneca, Cayuga, Canandaigua, and Keuka Lakes. This "lake effect" retains residual summer warmth in the winter, and winter's cold in the spring. Grape fields are protected from disastrous spring frost during grape formation, and early frost before the harvest. 

I got a chance on a lazy weekday afternoon to visit the Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery and had the pleasure of a tasting and tour given by a family member who happened to be working the tasting bar that day. After generous samples of the entire wine list and clinging to a glass of semi-sweet Riesling, I ventured into the cellar of the winery to poke around.

Residing at the bottom of a great old barn was a home-brewers dream, large jacketed fermenters and brightening tanks, a small bottling line and racks of Missouri Oak casks aging Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Enjoying a drink in the cellar would normally be the perfect ending to a winery trip, but I ventured out the basement door and face to face with the owner and winemaker at Cayuga Ridge. They were moving recently fermented Cabernet Sauvignon though a hydropress before racking into casks for a long rest and maturation. 

A hydropress is basically a large stainless steel container with a rubber bladder inside that fills with water and acts as a press. The pressure of the bladder presses the recently fermented wine, called lees, to remove residual yeast and precipitate before aging.

The cab was pleasantly cloudy like an unfiltered wine. It also was missing any of the oak flavor and mellowing that a rest in a cask would add. Instead this wine reminded me of the fields it came from. I shared some with family who found the taste harsh and in one case "dirt-like", however I think that is exactly why I enjoyed it. 

When making beer at home I taste and smell all my ingredients before brewing. I take time and sample wort hot from from being sparged, from hydrometer readings and the bottling bucket. Knowing your ingredients and following the path to maturity allows you to get to know where a beer is going and is the reward for crafting a product from scratch. It was exciting to see a sliver of the path that wine takes from grape to bottle. 

Many thanks to Danny Bell for the wine, tour and unique experience.

Charlie the Butcher's Kitchen

A kummelweck is a salty roll popular in Western New York, brought to the United States in the 1880's by Germans working and living in the cities and towns lining the Erie Canal. Kummelweck is similar to a Kaiser roll, but topped with chunky kosher salt that reminds me of the kind found on pretzels and a sparse addition of caraway seeds. 

Kummelweck is commonly shortened to “weck" (pronounced "wick"). When a weck is combined with hand carved slow-roasted rare roast beef, fresh horseradish and a healthy drenching of au jus it forms a sandwich known to the citizens of Buffalo and the surrounding area as "beef on weck".

Like most regional foods, the history of the beef on weck is long, storied and argued over. However, the general consensus is that in the early 1900's a local pub owner was looking for a way to feed his customers and seized on the roll, figuring the salt would make his patrons even thirstier for his beer. Variations weave Standard Oil, a fire, the 1901 Pan American Exposition and a long lost recipe from the Black Forest into the story. Like any good regional food, the tale can often be as good as the food.

 

Much like pizzas in New York City, loyalties to the local purveyors of this fine sandwich run deep. For my family this means we made a stop at Charlie the Butcher's over the Thanksgiving holiday to enjoy a sandwich and loganberry pop, another local staple and a perfect companion to a beef on weck.

The roast beef at Charlie the Butcher's is sliced on the thick side but is tender and easy to bite though. For me, horseradish plays an important role in this sandwich and I really enjoy how it complements the saltiness of the bun and the flavor of the beef.

As most great sandwiches have a element of messiness to them, the top half of the weck is dipped quickly into au jus and absorbed into the bread. The end result is a sandwich that at times requires the cheese-steak eating stance of the Philadelphia Lean so one may stay clean of juice and drippings.

A beef of weck is a pleasure to eat and worth each and every one of the 750 miles traveled between St. Louis and Buffalo to have one. Because I only get to enjoy this sandwich once a year, it seems to be a candidate for a cooking project here at home. Perhaps I'll ponder this a bit further as we hunker down into the cold of the Mid West winter and need a hearty meal that also warms the soul. 

In the meantime kudos are due to Charlie the Butcher and his delicious beef on weck.

Opinion: Highly Recommended

446 Cayuga Rd

Cheektowaga, NY 14225

(716) 626-9722

New York vs Chicago Style Hot Dogs

Hidden a short distance off Interstate 170 in St. Louis you will find Woofie's, a Vienna Beef Hall of Fame member serving up Chicago style hot dogs. Unless you work in the area, just getting to Woofie's these days is an adventure given the current construction on Interstate 64. However, seeing the journey though to the end will find you elbow to elbow with both tradesmen and white collar workers at a slim counter, enjoying some of the finest hot dogs in the city.

For over 30 years Woofie's has been serving up an eclectic mix of hot dogs, some classic like the Woolfie Dog and some downright inventive dogs like the Chili Pie and the Coney, a Vienna dog on a seeded bun topped with a slice of American cheese, chili, onion and a pickle. 

 

Gastrointestinal challenges like the Chili Pie aside, I was wondering how the restaurant's flagship dog, the Woofie, stacked up to a Mid-west perception of a New York dog. While I'm sure this establishes my East Coast bias in hot dogs, the Chicago style is without a doubt impressive and I can fully appreciate the adoration this dog receives. 

First up is the Chicago style:

The Chicago style hot dog is built for it's city, for the people that live there and for surviving its weather systems. This is the hot dog that the Mike Ditka would eat on a Saturday Night Live sketch. This is the mid afternoon snack of futures traders at the CBOE. The Chicago dog contains all the major food groups, is here to take on your stomach, and it's brought all of its friends for the fight. The Wolfie Dog is what you would expect from a Hall of Famer, riding deep into the pocket of a seeded bun and covered in a garden including a neon green relish. 

On several occasions my Woofie Dog was served with a knife and fork. This experience reminds me of a meal I enjoyed once with a friend's family, owners of several Italian restaurants. Dining on a plate of pasta one night and perplexed by the act of twirling linguine around a fork, my host pointed at the spoon and said, "Andrew, some Italian's use the spoon...but not the good ones." This is the essence of the Chicago dog. While help is provided, reaching for it is a sign of defeat. Woofie's Dogs are indeed woof'ed sans fork in a manner that is messy but in the end, fulfilling.

The New York Dog:

The New York style dog is also a homage to its fair city. From street vendors and small shops, the New York hot dog is made for transport. Dogs are topped with combination of onion sauce, sauerkraut and mustard, wrapped in paper or a single napkin and eaten on the fly. Even loaded down, a New York dog appears to be perfectly designed for an action figure's kung-fu grip. A New York dog is not here to bullshit with you.

The New York hot dog at Woofie's is delicious. Instead of being steamed, it is cooked on a griddle like the dogs at Grey's Papaya. It comes topped with a spicy mustard and a bed of sauerkraut, sitting there in front of you like a nest on a branch. Alas a New York dog it is not. Instead it is a Mid-western nod to the original, as if Chicago looked at it and said, "there, New York...now you are finished." 

The verdict:

In the end, the Chicago style Woofie Dog wins this throw down of cities and dogs, but it was never really a competition with Chicago's near home field advantage. Either way, I can't help but think that is it the diner who wins, no matter what their cardiologist says. For all I know your doctor might be sitting next to you as you eat. Woofie's is that good.

Opinion: Highly Recommended

1919 Woodson Rd

Overland, MO 

314-426-6291