Andrew Mark Veety

Assorted Minutia: 4/22-4/29/2011

I've started to keep a tumblr diary for all the little things that I find, read or eat during the week. With any luck the quick thoughts, dishes I ate and pictures I accumulated along the way will make for a a disjointed yet interesting weekly post. I'd be interested in knowing what readers think of this new idea.

The Beast in a Box from Salume Beddu.

This sandwich was so good, I may have cried half way though eating it. Simply, it is the best sandwich I've had this year. Interestingly enough I enjoyed it at the best lunch I've had this year. You need to get to know this dish, sooner rather than later.

Salami Pizza at The Good Pie.

I was lured (again) into the ongoing conversation about the Good Pie in the STLBites forum. The quick and dirty of the issue is that many in our fair city believe that the Good Pie is actually a Bad Pie. I happen to believe it's an excellent example of the pizza style. This argument has gone on for over 21 pages and 300 replies. I continue to be on the right side of this argument. A good chunk of St. Louis continues to be on the wrong side. I anticipate this weeks conversation changed the minds of exactly zero people. Oh well. Here is to the next 21 pages of this argument.

Beef kabob and falafel from Cafe Natasha.

Cafe Natasha may have the best beef shish kabob in St. Louis. Even when temped rare to medium rare, the outside is crisp while  the inside remains moist, tender and flavorful. Simple advice for those getting their kabob to go, savor every last drop of the juice  thrown off on the trip from Natasha's kitchen to your table.

Natasha's falafel is usually a favorite of mine. Spice, sauce and fried balls of chick peas make for a sandwich that I consume so fast that several bites include bits of the paper that each falafel is wrapped in. Not so much this time, the sauce was lacking and falafel was dry, for me, the texture was decidedly off this week.

Yellow Tree Farm Quail Eggs

Rain has dominated the weather forecast for the last week and a half, but I made the best of it by heading out to the Maplewood Farmers Market to pick up my Yellow Tree Farm CSA. Besides bamboo shoots, quails and chicken eggs, I ended up with 37 quail eggs. The plan is to pickle them. It promises to be an adventure.

Pasta with asparagus, onions and roasted tomato.

For dinner this week I made this simple pasta dish of sautéed onions, asparagus and roasted tomatoes over linguine. Reserved liquid from the roasted tomatoes, a few ladle-fulls of pasta water and good olive oil make a sauce that does not overshadow spring asparagus, which should be showing up at the market soon, if it has not already. 

Farmers' Larder kielbasa

I am part Polish. My wife is part Polish. We have a ritual in our home called Polish night were we eat the foods that our families introduced us to when we were my son's age. Roasted potatoes, broccoli (most likely not Polish, but good for you) and sauerkraut are the supporting cast for kielbasa from the Farmers' Larder, a local charcuterie vendor at the Maplewood Farmer's Market. This is the kielbasa I remember from growing up. The snap of a natural casing, outstanding local beef and pork, just a hint of marjoram and a finish that is all garlic. A steal at $9.00 a package.

First Taste of Kool-aid

Kool-aid is not a big part of our lives and until this week, it was unknown to my son. However, some neighborhood kids were selling grape Kool-aid as a fund raiser for the victims of the recent weeks tornadoes here in Missouri. Who can say no to that?

Son, meet high fructose corn syrup. It tastes good, right? Don't get used to it.

This Is The Greatest And Best Meal In The World...Tribute

I was hustling though the grocery store yesterday after work, picking up a handful of things to tide my wife and son over while I was in the city playing softball with the greatest fucking team in the world, The Dirty Dogs (respect).

Moving quickly though the produce and bakery departments I skidded into the aisle where they stock tomato sauce on two wheels -- passing cans of beans and chili in a flash only to nearly roll over a middle aged gentleman who stood in front of a recently faced stack of Manwich with a can in his hand and a pensive look on his face.

As I glided by on my way to the pasta sauce at the end of the aisle, I watched him gingerly place the can back on the shelf and step back. There was no lateral movement, as if he decided to move on another option for tonight's dinner. He just stood there looking at the shelf.

I remember thinking as I passed...Sloppy Joes. Nice. Open face on buttered and toasted hamburger rolls, or better yet Texas toast. Seriously, once its on your mind, its hard to deny yourself a Sloppy Joe, and as I moved to the shelves of tomato sauce I made a mental note to slip this treat into a future weekly menu for dinner, albeit a homemade version as its just so easy to make.

Anyway...

My eyes were shifting quickly from one jar to another, looking for something organic, on sale and complementary to the goat cheese my wife likes to mix her sauce with when I'm not around. I happened to look to my right just in time to see the same guy, standing there with that can of Manwich in his hand, pondering it before putting it right back on the shelf. Same pained look on his face, same few steps back from the shelf.

Selecting a jar of pasta sauce and placing it in my cart I made my way back up the aisle and as I got close to this guy I hear him say to nobody in particular:

"Fuck it. I'm going for it."

Then he threw the can into his basket and walked off. I shit you not.

I can only wonder what was going on in this guys mind, but I've come to one of two conclusions.

1) This guy knew deep down that Manwich from a can is probably not very good for you.

or

2) This guy was questioning his ability to make Manwich from a can.

Either way kind sir, I'm paying tribute to your meal by placing this basic recipe out into the ether that is the Internet so others do not have to go though the same mental anguish that you did. To start lets look at the basic ingredients to a can of Original Manwich:

Tomato Puree (Water, Tomato Paste), High Fructose Corn Syrup, Distilled Vinegar, Corn Syrup, Less than 2% of: Salt, Sugar, Dehydrated Onions, Dehydrated Red and Green Bell Peppers, Chile Pepper, Tomato Fiber, Spices, Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum, Dehydrated Garlic, Carob Bean Gum, Natural Flavors.

Kinda creepy right?

Ok, here is your shopping list, you can eyeball the amounts for the most part because hell, you are making Sloppy Joe sauce.

Olive Oil, Tomato Paste, Tomato Sauce, Vinegar, Brown Sugar, Worcestershire Sauce, Beef Stock, Beer, Onions, Peppers, Garlic, Chili Powder, Salt, Pepper.

The process assumes you have a few things:

A heat source like a stove, wood fire or the engine block of a recently running car. A pot that is not made of aluminum. A knife. A large spoon. Nice to haves would include an indoor kitchen and maybe a cutting board.

Simply you want to chop up your veggies -- you can keep saying "Sloppy Joes" while you chop to remind yourself that a perfect dice is not needed. Just chop till they look good to you. Now place them in a pot with some oil and salt and put the spurs (heat) to them. Add the tomato paste, maybe 2 or 3 spoons worth. Pour in a can of tomato sauce. Pour in your beef stock. Pour in a beer (make it domestic and light - and have one for yourself while you are at it). A few spoon fulls of the brown sugar. Splash some Worcestershire sauce in there. More salt. Pepper. Add your spices - if you like it hot, add more chili powder or better yet some hot sauce. Reduce it till it starts to get thick.

Step back and look at that shit, you've essentially made Manwich.

Now brown some meat off, pour your sauce on top and tell the kiddos to buckle the fuck up cause they are having Sloppy Joe's for dinner.

Kitchen Tools - Egg Rings

Years of watching Alton Brown has drilled into me the importance of avoiding one purpose tools in the kitchen - with the exception of a fire extinguisher - which every kitchen should have. 

For the most part I am in agreement with Alton. However, every once in a while I find a tool that clearly only has a single, totally awesome purpose. At these times I have to expand my definition of multi-use to include the creation of joy - as in the joy it brings to friends and family when it is pulled from the dark recesses of a drawer or cabinet and put to use.

My set of egg rings are just such a tool. 

Yes, they are only good for making perfectly round eggs, but when combined with a cast iron skillet they let me make restaurant quality egg sandwiches at home in short order.

 

I highly recommend picking up a set for your next Sunday breakfast, mine were about fifteen dollars at Williams Sonoma. The price point would also make these rings an affordable gift as well - why would you not want to give the gift of awesome sandwiches to a friend the next time you are hard up for a last minute gift? 

The "process" (if it could be called that):

I like to add a small pad of butter to the center of the ring, using a brush to coat the sides of the metal ring as it comes to temperature. In addition to adding a great nutty flavor to the egg, it helps the ring release before its time to flip the egg. If you would like, you can also use the fat released from cooking bacon or sausage in place of butter - its up to you - I know I would never say no to an egg cooked in pork fat.

Cooking time for an egg is about equal to the time it takes to toast an english muffin. 

Yes, a great egg sandwich breakfast at home is really that easy.

Best of 2008

This has been a great year of travel and eating, discovering new tools and techniques for cooking, experiencing great slices of Americana and time spent with friends and family. I thought it would be a good idea to capture a few of my favorites for the past year.

A New Perspective Via A New Grill:

Well constructed and sporting thick cast iron grates, this Brinkman grill creates enough smoke and grill marks to turn my back yard into a decent smokehouse. In short order I adjusted to this new tool and turned out top notch whole chickens, ribs, briskets, massive steaks, pizzas and deserts. 

I really like the front loading door which allows you to feed the fire without lifting the lid and losing heat. Maintaining a steady 220 degrees with minor heat management is priceless, but at around $200.00 this grill is a steal. It takes a bit more work than my old gas grill to prep and clean, but you can't beat it as a cooking tool.

Texas Potatoes:

Potato, onion, butter and bacon in a cast iron skillet. From my post "Roasted Garlic Strip Steaks with Texas Potatoes".

Sony DSC-T500 Camera:

In a year of great new toys the Sony DSC-T500 camera has been my favorite. Small enough to fit into my pocket with 10.1 megapixels, a 3.5" wide touch screen, HD video recording with stereo mics and a 5X Optical Zoom. I also really like the macro lens which allows me to get great close ups of food for the site. I'm also loving not having to pull out my Nikon D70 in greasy diners. 

The large screen is really bright and eats though the battery in short order. After a month or so of use, I'm thinking a back up battery for this camera might be one of my "Best of 2009".

Float Trip Chicken:

There are few things better in the world than floating down a river with friends, beers and cold picnic chicken. From my post "Float Trip Picnic Chicken".

Tortas In The Park:

From my first "interview" for the site - I exchanged emails with my friend and regular Friday lunch companion Bob Baker as we made Tortas for 50 people on his birthday. He went to great lengths to get all the right ingredients and I was happy to help put together this great sandwich. From my post "Tower Grove Park Tortas".

Crab Boil:

I was so happy when my wife completed her LEED certification in September. We filled the back yard with people and I prepared the crabs the only way I know how - with lots of Old Bay and steamed in Guinness. From my post "Seafood Boil In The Heart of St. Louis". 

The New York Times Columnists:

Many thanks to Maureen Dowd, Tom Friedman and Paul Krugman for the insight, information and entertainment this year.

Llywelyn's Pub Burger:

 

One of my favorite burgers of the past year. From my post "Llywelyn's Pub".

Nunez de Prado Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil:

Happen chance introduced me to this great olive oil as I wandered around Whole Foods this year. It's got a perfect balance for cooking or for dipping bread in. Voted one of the best olive oils in America by Cooks Illustrated, Whole Foods stocks 25 oz. bottles for around 15 dollars. Next to bacon fat, this oil has quickly become my choice fat in the kitchen.

The Salt Lick:

Sure it is for show, but the open pit at The Salt Lick was a treat to see, and the folks were super nice and let me ram around in their kitchen. From my post "The Salt Lick Barbeque".

"My Life in France" by Julia Child

Probably the best book I read this year. In it Julia tells the story of learning to live, eat and cook in France. Julia lived an incredible life and her love of slow-food makes me excited to get into the kitchen.

Carl's Drive-In:

Old school burgers smashed on a flat top griddle. From my post "Carl's Drive-In".

Rear Window Defrosters and Heated Seats:

I said goodbye to my 1997 Mazda Miata M-Edition this fall. While this car was always fun to drive, it was never a great every day automobile. Instead I opted for some features the Miata never had - rear window defrosters and heated seats - attached to an Acura RL. Unceremoniously named an "old man's car" by my wife, it has made the commute into work one of the best parts of my day. Why - because I can see out the back window in the winter without risking a broken convertible top.

Woofies New York vs Chicago Showdown:

This past fall was all about hot dogs, Chicago style. From my post "New York vs Chicago Style Hot Dogs".

Fakesgiving Trisket:

I'm still not sure why I wanted to stuff a turkey into a perfectly cooked brisket, but I did it. From my post "Trisket - A Turkey Inside a Brisket".

Charlie The Butcher:

After a particularly good edition of "Meet The Press", I would send an email to Tim Russert of NBC News to congratulate him on that weeks content. To try to elicit a reply from the busy newsman, I would suggest that he reward his staff with beef on weck from Charlie The Butcher in Buffalo, New York. Tim never replied to my emails, but I got a chance to think again about how much his show meant to my Sunday mornings as I enjoyed a sandwich in Buffalo this fall. From my post "Charlie The Butcher's Kitchen".

The Penguin Drive In:

Punk rock music, burgers named after engines and a sweet soda called Cheerwine. From my post "The Penguin Drive-In".

Fatherhood:

Sara and I recently announced that we are pregnant to friends and family, and I launched another blog to document all the events leading up to the arrival of our first child in June of 2009. I think its a given that updates on homemade baby food will require equal billing with burgers and dogs next year.

The Penguin Drive-In

In 1954 Jim and Jean Ballentine purchased an ice cream shop in the Plaza-Midwood neighborhood in Charlotte, North Carolina. Populated with families and craftsman style bungalow homes, The Penguin (locally known as "The Bird") was an anchor of the neighborhood during its hay-day serving ice cream, burgers and hot dogs. 

Over the years Charlotte sprawled into the county and the neighborhood fell into decline. The family run businesses that surrounded The Penguin moved and were replaced with adult entertainment establishments. Business slowed and the local hot spot fell into disrepair, closing its doors in 1999. 

Since that time, interest in rehabbing the neighborhood took hold. Families moved back to the area to rehab homes and a group of punk rock kids took over The Penguin, bringing the business back to life. Today, like in the past, The Penguin is a local hot spot with great food and lines running out the door. 

I've been waiting for some time to visit The Penguin, specifically to try a new favorite of mine, deep fried pickles. I've been hooked on this dish since Sara and I visited Gulf Shores, Alabama on our honeymoon. Whereas the pickles in Alabama were breaded with corn meal, the pickles at The Penguin have a light and thin coating that reminds me of tempura. Served with ranch dressing, the fried pickles were a great pairing for a beer and the local soda, a cherry flavored drink called Cheerwine.

As soon as the pickles were polished off, I dug into The Penguin's Big Block Burger. The Big Block Burger is two beef patties weighing a combined 2/3rd of a pound topped with lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

Finishing off the meal was a Race Track Dog topped with mustard, a loose meat chili, a mayo based cole slaw and chopped onions. 

The most memorable part of this hot dog was the scent of chili and cole slaw that hung low over the table as we ate and made me hesitant to try this dog. However, missing out on this treat would have been a mistake. The cole slaw was light and had a tang that you normally find with a vinegar based slaw. Hidden beneath the dog was a spicy mustard that completes each bite with just a bit of heat. 

A few other treats enjoyed at our lunch at The Penguin:

 

The Tupelo Special - Peanut Butter and Banana on Texas Toast

Thin sliced onion rings with a lonely pickle riding on top.

Opinion: Recommended

1921 Commonwealth Ave

Charlotte, North Carolina 28205

Charlie the Butcher's Kitchen

A kummelweck is a salty roll popular in Western New York, brought to the United States in the 1880's by Germans working and living in the cities and towns lining the Erie Canal. Kummelweck is similar to a Kaiser roll, but topped with chunky kosher salt that reminds me of the kind found on pretzels and a sparse addition of caraway seeds. 

Kummelweck is commonly shortened to “weck" (pronounced "wick"). When a weck is combined with hand carved slow-roasted rare roast beef, fresh horseradish and a healthy drenching of au jus it forms a sandwich known to the citizens of Buffalo and the surrounding area as "beef on weck".

Like most regional foods, the history of the beef on weck is long, storied and argued over. However, the general consensus is that in the early 1900's a local pub owner was looking for a way to feed his customers and seized on the roll, figuring the salt would make his patrons even thirstier for his beer. Variations weave Standard Oil, a fire, the 1901 Pan American Exposition and a long lost recipe from the Black Forest into the story. Like any good regional food, the tale can often be as good as the food.

 

Much like pizzas in New York City, loyalties to the local purveyors of this fine sandwich run deep. For my family this means we made a stop at Charlie the Butcher's over the Thanksgiving holiday to enjoy a sandwich and loganberry pop, another local staple and a perfect companion to a beef on weck.

The roast beef at Charlie the Butcher's is sliced on the thick side but is tender and easy to bite though. For me, horseradish plays an important role in this sandwich and I really enjoy how it complements the saltiness of the bun and the flavor of the beef.

As most great sandwiches have a element of messiness to them, the top half of the weck is dipped quickly into au jus and absorbed into the bread. The end result is a sandwich that at times requires the cheese-steak eating stance of the Philadelphia Lean so one may stay clean of juice and drippings.

A beef of weck is a pleasure to eat and worth each and every one of the 750 miles traveled between St. Louis and Buffalo to have one. Because I only get to enjoy this sandwich once a year, it seems to be a candidate for a cooking project here at home. Perhaps I'll ponder this a bit further as we hunker down into the cold of the Mid West winter and need a hearty meal that also warms the soul. 

In the meantime kudos are due to Charlie the Butcher and his delicious beef on weck.

Opinion: Highly Recommended

446 Cayuga Rd

Cheektowaga, NY 14225

(716) 626-9722

Tower Grove Park Totras

As August rolled to a close, we got together in Tower Grove Park to have a mass celebration for all of our August born friends. With over 50 people expected around dinner time, the event host, Bob Baker decided to feed the throngs tortas, a Mexican sandwich that is both fresh and filling. I offered to help Bob with the prep work and assembly in exchange for an interview on his experience recreating this classic, and what it was like to share it with folks who have never had the chance to enjoy one of the hidden treasures of tacqueria cuisine. 

I hope the following discussion peeks your interest and you head out to try this unique sandwich for yourself.

Q. As you worked the grill, I heard several people walk past me discussing how you believe the torta is the "king of sandwiches". For you, what makes the torta superior to other sandwiches?

 

A. I like the torta because it's never caught on with mainstream America - - it looks too much like a sandwich, I think.  But really it's the best of both worlds:  the best starch (bread) with the best cuisine (Mexican).   Also, the layering of ingredients on a torta makes each one stand out more than when they are crammed together in a burrito.

 

Q. I can appreciate that viewpoint. The totra reminds me of the Vietnamese Bahn Mi sandwich, which is a personal favorite of mine. Both sandwiches have an almost perfect balance, where each ingredient complements the other. For your taste, is there one ingredient that you feel makes this sandwich, or do you feel its a team effort with all the ingredients playing off each other?

 

A. I think it's the combination of so many good ingredients that gives the torta its appeal.  It's the Mexican version of a dagwood sandwich.

Q. I like that you took the time to shop for authentic ingredients, like the correct breads and meats. Did you learn anything new as part of your research and prep? Any skills or techniques you would like to use more in your daily cooking?

 

A. The bakery I went to on Cherokee St calls the torta roll a telera.  Crunchy on the outside, and airy on the inside.  And the butcher recommended the arrachera cut of beef for the carne asada (flap meat, i believe).  After I ordered the meat, the butcher took the already thin steaks, and butterflied them ever thinner, to about 1/8" i suppose.  I marinated the meat for 8 hours in an olive oil, lime and spice mix.  Despite the thinness of the beef and the time spent in lime juice, when cooked medium, the meat was tough and the marinade sat on top like too much Italian dressing. I found it was better to cook the meat to well done, well-browned on both sides, to make the meat tastier and easier to chew.  Any moisture lost from over-cooking was easily replaced by the guacamole, pico do gallo, cheese, lettuce, and refried beans.

 

Q. We spoke after you made these sandwiches and mentioned that you took some of the beef and continued to marinade it for several days. Any lessons learned there?

A. After 8 hours of marinating, the meat was more tender, but still a bit too chewy.  A day later, the meat was easy to cut and chew through.  And two days later, it was even better.  I would have continued this experiment for the next week, but my wife (a vegetarian) got digested looking at this experiment progress in the fridge, and removed it from sight.  Bottom line - - I guess the arrachera cut of meat needs a lot of time (or maybe more acid) to truly soften up.

Q. I had a discussion with someone who insisted on comparing the torta to a muffaletta? Do you think this is a fair comparison?

 

A. Not for me.  I adore the contrasting fresh ingredients of tortas, and can do without the fatty, densely stacked meat, cheese, and olive mix of a muffaletta.  I suppose the muffaletta roll is pretty similar to a telera.  After that, they go their own ways.

Q. You seemed to focus on using a flat top to complete the cheese component of this sandwich, where did you pick up this technique?

 

A. At my favorite St Louis tacqueria (La Vallesana) they throw shredded cheese on the griddle, lay a toasted telera on top, and sweep everything up a few seconds later.  I tried this using a cast iron griddle.  At first I noticed the cheese stuck to the grill as much as the roll - - but found that a quick slide underneath with a metal spatula could get under the browned cheese - - and leave the cheesy topped roll looking like it had just come from the broiler.

 

As a side note, I am not a fan of the mayo/mustard approach some take on these sandwiches.  Fresh salsa and guacamole make more sense to me with spicy grilled Mexican meat, even when served on a bread roll.

 

Q. The crowd also was really into your guacamole, do you have any recommendations that you would like to share?

 

A. I've always felt avocado can stand on its own.   A little salt, pepper and garlic salt isn't too obtrusive.  And if it's going to sit for a while, some lime juice can keep it green.  I prefer it without the lime, but that's the price you pay when serving at a leisurely party.

           

Q. Here in St. Louis, where would you send someone to have their first torta, and what would you tell them to order?

 

A. For anyone's first torta in Saint Louis, the standard bearer is La Vallesana on Cherokee Street.  It's not quite as good as ones I've had Southwest from here, but it's certainly enough to find out whether tortas speak to you.

Eovaldi’s Meatball Sandwich

I was recently enjoying one of my favorite lunchtime activities, wandering around The Hill, an Italian neighborhood in St. Louis, looking for a sandwich. Venturing off my normal path, I came across Eovaldi’s, a small, unassuming deli known for salsiccia, a fresh pork Italian sausage favored by the locals. Across The Hill, salsiccia is piled high on crusty breads and served with roast beef, meatballs, onions, mushrooms and Provel, a cheese loved mostly by folks who were born here and loathed by visitors and transplants alike.

On the wall behind the meat counter hangs a picture of the owner’s family and Mario Batali, grinning and attempting to hold a sandwich long enough to spill over the sides of its picture frame. The deli is a bare space with a few coolers for drinks, a rack of Old Vienna potato chips, the aforementioned meat case and several tables of quiet men in business suits working away at their lunchtime meals.

In my experience, all are good omens.

Like most deli’s on The Hill, the menu is stocked with old standbys named after their primary ingredient, a city (New York / Chicago / St. Louis being the favorites), a person, and then a smaller list of specialty sandwiches. All the choices looked good, but for first visit to any deli, my go to/baseline sandwich is meatballs with no cheese.

In quick order I was on my way home with a foil wrapped meatball sandwich. My first impression was the small amount of red sauce, or “the gravy” as I affectionately call it. The meatballs themselves were irregular (they are made in-house) and appeared to be baked, not fried (a preference, the meatball has more to do with a meatloaf than a French fry). The sandwich looked really good, however the lack of red sauce hung over my lunch like a cloud.

For a second I thought about defrosting some sauce I had in the freezer before digging in, but only for a second. This truly is a meatball sandwich, with the sauce and bread playing a quiet second and third to the spicy and flavorful meat. Now I understand why Batali was grinning in that picture, the folks at Eovaldi’s know the key to a sandwich is to balance all its parts.

Sometimes just enough is better than to much, it’s a shame so many fail to understand that. I will return for the salsiccia sooner rather than later.

Opinion: Recommended

Eovaldi’s On the Hill
2201 Edwards Street
St. Louis, MO 63110

On the web:

• Sauce Magazine
• KMOV Sauce on the Street Video