Andrew Mark Veety

Family Style Sunday Dinner At Gallagher's

My favorite way to dine out is family style. From soul food at Mrs. Wilke's Dining Room in Savannah to a massive plate of porterhouse steak for eight at Peter Luger Steakhouse in Brooklyn, it is hard to beat the act of communal dining with friends and family.

I enjoy family style because its a reflection of how our family eats at home. Not only do we enjoy making a menu at the beginning of the week and preparing our meals all week long instead of heading out to restaurants - we also love to fill our home with friends for a meal as often as we can. Give me great friends new and old, a comfortable table to accommodate them and enough inspired food to cover it from end to end and I am a happy man. 

A group of people, giving their time, sharing stories, raising glasses and experiencing the same flavors at the same time. How could it get better than that?

However it is not just the sense of community that attracts me to family style dining, it is also the sense of ritual and history associated with it. Family style cooking is not cutting edge or grand cuisine, although it can often make what was old new again. Family style cooking takes the food of our family, culture and youth and passes it along for all to share. Simply put, it returns us to our roots, or in the case of a family style restaurant, the roots of the folks preparing the meal.

Unfortunately for the dining public, this style is more of a novelty than an every day reality. In its place we find small print at the bottom of a menu indicating an additional charge to share plates, which seems to perplexing to me in so many ways. Is family style not considered a viable business model or have we as diners given up on the idea of communal eating outside of the home?

Well St. Louis, a drive of less than an hour will find you in the sleepy town of Waterloo, Illinois, the home of Gallagher's, a small gem that serves up a superb pan fried chicken dinner on Sunday afternoons. During the week Gallagher's offers up high end pub food like candied bacon burgers and chops, but on Sunday it forgoes its menu in favor of a family style meal that includes biscuits, pan fried chicken, mashed potatoes with a cream gravy, slow cooked green beans with ham, corn custard and a desert for about thirteen bucks a person.

Now that is a family style / family value I can get behind.

The entrance to Gallagher's is one part gastropub and one part Victorian bed and breakfast, however once you move past the doorway and stairs you find yourself in a handsome bar complete with a server who would look more at home at the Royale than this small community surrounded by farmland on all sides. In fact, the hipster feel of our waiter, covered shoulder to knuckle with amazing sleeves of tattoos on each arm, was an awesome juxtaposition to the overall environment. Old and new. Stuffy and punk rock. I enjoyed the feeling of Gallagher's very much.

We were quickly shown to a table and told that our order was already in, which was perfect because now it was clear that Sunday dinner is done right at Gallagher's - count the heads, fill the glasses with tea and start bringing out the food. In this case this was a basket of pulled from the oven buttermilk biscuits that would get the nodding approval of your dear old grandmother. The only improvement would have been some fresh preserves or better yet honey to drizzle.

A biscuit and tall glass of tea later our waiter appeared again with a tray filled with a whole fried chicken, potatoes, gravy, green beans and corn which we took turns dishing out and passing along for the next person to sample.

Standing out were the green beans, perfectly cooked and mixed with large pieces of smokey ham and the corn custard, which walked the thin line between corn casserole and creamed corn.

Lacking were the mashed potatoes which had a pleasant appearance and texture but went from gummy to gummier throughout the meal. While I enjoyed the cream gravy I thought it could have done with some chicken flavor, ideally from some fat reserved from the pan fried chicken. However, as advertised, it is a cream gravy so I can't complain to much.

However, the highlight of this meal was the pan fried chicken, which happens to be my favorite preparation. Unlike a deep fried chicken, the parts are broken down, seasoned, coated and then placed into a cast iron skillet to cook - first on one side and then the other. The chicken was seasoned correctly with salt playing well with a collection of secret spices - I detected onion, garlic and chili for heat but there is enough hidden in there to keep you guessing thought the meal. The crispness of the crust was everything that a Shake 'n Bake coated chicken should be but always isn't.

I opted for dark meat the first go around, which always stands up better to frying than white meat. Both the wing and thigh I had were crisp on the outside and a heady mix of grease and juice on the inside. Normally I am discouraged by an overly greasy piece of fried chicken because it indicates it was was poorly fried, however I was more than OK with it given this pan fry method. My second helping was part of a large breast, and while it was cooked as well as the thigh and wing, it was dryer than I would have expected. Still tasty, but not nearly as much as with the dark meat.

With plates removed and hands and faces washed our waiter appeared again with was was described as a "light cake" comprised of chocolate and a caramel crunch topping. Truth be told it was as billed - the cake was light and airy allowing the sparse topping to provide the heft to this tasty treat. Excellent ending to a solid meal.

Did I mention that this family style meal was thirteen dollars and under an hour from St. Louis? I for one can't wait to return with friends for another round of family style dining at Gallagher's.

Guest Post - Kelli Best Oliver Takes Down A Jucy Lucy

The High Priestess of The Church of Burger, Kelli Best-Oliver hits up the Twin Cities and takes down a Jucy Lucy. Kelli reports:

About once a month, I embark on a northern sojourn to the Twin Cities. While I've been making this trip for almost three years, I've not yet had time for culinary exploration, until now. My friend Eric offered to plan a pub crawl that kicked off with a visit to a mecca for burger enthusiasts: Matt's Bar.  Matt's Bar, along with the 5-8 Club are widely touted as purveyors of the Cities' oldest and best Jucy Lucy.  

The Jucy Lucy (and, yes, it's spelled that way at Matt's) is a cheese-stuffed burger. More specifically, it's two thin burger patties pressed together around a lump of American cheese. The burger is cooked until the cheese is molten, creating a dangerous first bite known to scorch many a tongue. As the reigning High Priestess of the Church of Burger, I felt it was my duty to brave the threat of cheese-related injury and sample a Jucy Lucy.

Matt's has gained national notoriety after being featured on both Man vs. Food and, more recently, Food Wars, which explained the line out the door at 3:30 on a gorgeous Saturday. Matt's is truly a corner pub, with around 65 seats at booths, tables, and at the bar. It is, despite its celebrity status, a dive in the truest sense: wood paneling, neon lights, and cash-only. Once our spots in line reached inside the building, the friendly barkeep (also the owner, I'm told) offered us beverages to keep us occupied. We chose, naturally, a pitcher of Grain Belt Premium. While waiting, I observed the efficient machine that is Matt's. Besides the bartender pulling beers and taking cans of soda out of the cooler, there were two servers on the floors, and one guy schlepping trays of uncooked burgers from the downstairs prep space to the cook. The cook manned a tiny flattop, about the size of a small desk, and a deep-fryer that churned out baskets of hot fries.

Despite the crowded nature, our party of seven was able to, with a little sweet talking to some college boys, snag the biggest booth in the corner. There's not much to say about your choices: while regular burgers (and a few other irrelevant offerings) can be had, what's the point? You come for the Lucy, with or without grilled onions. I chose without, and added a basket of fries.

Service is friendly and efficient, as places with perpetual lines out the door tend to be. But let's get to the main event: the Lucy. It comes wrapped in wax paper, which serves as your plate. I let my burger cool a bit, per our server's orders. The outside of the burger is pure char, about as much as one can get away with before treading into burnt territory. The bun is grilled and toasty. Here's the money shot:

In order to achieve the molten cheese, I'm guessing they have no choice but to cook the burgers well. The patty, actually a merging of two individual patties around the cheese, are handmade, and a cross between a West-Coast thin griddled burger and a fast-food burger because of this doneness. In that sense, the meat was nothing special. However, it was properly seasoned and the char gave a nice bite that goes well with the runny slough of liquified American that literally squirts out of each bite.  The rendered beef fat, along with little bits of meat, merge with the cheese, giving each bite a fatty, savory coating. While ketchup is on the table, no other toppings, other than the onions, are offered. It should be noted that the fries are exactly as I prefer them: skinny, salty, and steaming hot from the fryer.

The Lucy (and, indeed, the entire Matt's Bar experience) is an essential stop for burger lovers visiting the Cities, and served as the perfect stomach-lining for an impending pub crawl.

Kelli Best-Oliver is a founding member of The Church of Burger and writes for The Food Blog Mafia and on her own site, South City Confidential.

Send Me To Hot Dog University!

There was a bit of talk on Twitter recently about the Vienna Beef iPhone app, which I downloaded and had a chance to check out. While the functionality of the actual application appears to be dubious at best, it does have a link section. And that link section includes a reference to the Hot Dog University in Chicago.

Jackpot.

Known as "The Harvard of Encased Meats", Hot Dog U has a weekend long course entitled "The Art of the Cart" which was designed for people who are considering purchasing a hot dog cart. Now, regular readers of this site know I'm a sucker for a good hot dog. Is the leap from hot dog aficionado to hot dog vendor that hard to imagine for me?

Ok. Maybe the hod dog vending life is not for me, with my life as it exists today. However, I think the experience would be priceless and help to improve my writing on the topic of hot dogs. Who would doubt a hot dog review from a guy with an actual degree in hot dogs?

I was all kinds of fired up when the video above was highlighted on CBS's Sunday Morning several years ago. Alas, I could not get my wife to agree that attending a $700.00 class at the University was an efficient use of our resources. Unable to get a convincing argument past her, I moved on but never really forgot about my idea to attend Hot Dog University.

Well, all this talk of Vienna beef has me thinking it might make sense to give it another try, the good old college try. However, this time with some help. I will gladly cover the cost of travel and lodging, but I'd like to make a heart felt appeal to my readers for help with the class. Will you help? Please click the image below to donate.

Shades Of A Former Self At South 21

UPDATE:

Several days after posting this review, I was contacted by George Motz who informed me that the original South 21 Drive-In in Charlotte, North Carolina was and is very much open for business. George writes:

"Andrew - Thanks for your praise for my book. It's always great to hear when real burger lovers are using the book to find real burger joints. Unfortunately it sounds like you went to the wrong South 21 in Charlotte. The family business split up a few decades back and the only original location is on Independence Ave. It looks like you visited the Matthews location which is not owned by the Housiadas family. I just spoke to George at South 21 and he said they are doing great and that Fieri was just there and they are going to be on the Food Network next month...

Visit south21drivein and make sure you get to this location next time you are in Charlotte.

George"

I'm quite embarrassed by this error on my part - the research I did indicated the original location was indeed closed, leaving only the Matthews shop. In any event, I will head over to the original on my next trip to Charlotte and thanks to George for keeping me honest.

Kind Regards

amv

ORIGINAL REVIEW:

In his book "Hamburger America" George Motz does an admirable job waxing nostalgic about classic roadside burger joints like South 21, located in Charlotte, North Carolina. I pick through George's book before I travel for work and lug it in the car for road trips with my family. However, I don't covet this book just for the amazing burgers and photography, I also love they way George has captured the stories behind these small, family run businesses. 

The concept of highlighting these gems of Americana, and in many cases the American Dream, is not a new one although it seems to be enjoying a renaissance of sorts. From Guy Fieri's show "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" to Alton Brown's "Feasting on Asphalt" and Adam Richman's "Man v. Food", basic cable offers a regularly scheduled smorgasbord of quirky and uniquely American eateries. Web sites like Roadfood add to the mix, acting as an archive of great road trip eats, frequented by folks who are looking for a bit more than a "Number 2, Large with a Coke".

Interestingly enough the act of cataloguing and making recommendations on American roadfood can be traced back at least in part to Duncan Hines, who out of necessity created a whole category of the foods we should seek out and the ones we should avoid when traveling. In a way, he created the first food blog, and that DNA resides within all food writing and the shows we watch today.

Many times the thread that connects these food resources, people and places are roads like Route 66 that have long since been replaced by our national highway system. We relish sharing the stories of our favorite roadside gems, located on well worn but sometimes forgotten paths. However, when the proverbial rubber its the road, how often do we take the extra time needed to visit these vintage finds? Instead we opt for the convenience of the homogenized taste that is modern America - available with a quick on and off, bus parking and clean bathrooms just up ahead at the next exit - or if you miss that exit - the one right after that.

I had this in mind when I visited the last of the South 21 Drive-in's in Charlotte. Sadly the restaurant George Motz describes has been shuttered since he published his book. Gone is the curb side service, the carhops in black fedora hats and the neon signage that separated South 21 from its competition for over 50 years. 

In its place is a nondescript white building brimming with memorabilia from the original location. The sign on Independence Boulevard does not light up to invite wayward travelers in, instead it shows a graphic of the original sign which sits darkened several miles away. Instead of drive up and in car eating, customers park between the building and a strip mall. Once inside you can view pictures of the classic cars and hot rods that one time filled the car stalls of this Charlotte institution. 

In almost every way, the packaging of this burger joint has changed, even as the actual food packaging and menu remains the same. Instead of being one of the 100 best burger joints in America, it has become an homage to what it once was.

However enough with the lecture, lets get on to the food.

 

The Dog:

To start I opted for a hot dog complete with a house made chili, mustard and a healthy addition of raw onions. The chili was a great partner for the dog, consisting almost completely of loose meat and containing just enough spice. All in all it was a well rounded dog that held up to its toppings and lasted all of about 5 bites. Being the south the bun was fresh from the bag and not steamed or warmed on a flat top. All in all it was a good drive-in dog. 

What was missing from this dog? Slaw. We are in North Carolina folks, where is the slaw dog?

The Burger:

The signature burger at 21 South is the Super Boy - two 4 oz beef patties, mustard, onions, lettuce and tomato with a pickle speared through the top, which my brother (whom you might remember from my post Matt vs. Food) gamely ordered and took down like a champ. But as you can see, he was duly impressed by my order (pictured above and below), the 21 Xpress Special.

Consisting of three 4 oz beef patties, mustard, onions, lettuce and tomato, the Xpress Special towered over the Super Boy - a monster pile of beef resting atop a fistful of roughage. 

Sizable? Yes. Tasty? Well, its easy for me to say that this is not one of the 100 best burgers in America. 

The veggies seemed old and wilted for the volume of business South 21 does. With that much turnover you would expect crisp lettuce. A bad tomato in the late fall can be expected, but a crisp bed of lettuce would have made for a fantastic foundation to this burger. Instead of a crisp snap to break up the sandwich, it was hard to tell where the bun stopped and the lettuce began.

The patties are all beef, sourced from the same butcher for over 45 years, and cooked to well, which for their thinness is probably unavoidable. The burger is charred, but does not come close to that of a good smashed burger, which in all honesty was what I was expecting. Caramelization is so important to a burger and these patties were missing it. All told, it was a pretty standard burger - again - hardly one of the 100 best in America. 

With all due respect Mr. Motz, South 21 is not what it used to be.

The Takedown:

In the end I think what made South 21 so very standard was not the food, its clear that over 50 years, the owners of South 21 have found a formula that works well for them. For me, what is missing is the experience; the neon, the uniforms and the throwback to a car culture that is sadly long gone. In its place is a shadow of what once was, a great burger joint. 

For the kind folks of Charlotte, I'm sure they are happy that some vestige of their burger culture remains. The pictures and the packaging mean something to them and for this I am sure they are grateful. Sadly they left me wanting the real deal, not full size photographs and scale models.

I am positive the same 21 Xpress Special, served in wax paper and sitting on a tray hanging from the window of my old 1997 M-Edition Miata would be an almost religious burger experience. I can imagine visiting on a Saturday night, hanging out in the glow of neon and communing with a killer burger. And that burger would be great, because the place that it was served was so special it could not help but make a standard burger a fantastic one.

The Counter Burger

Thanksgiving found me at my parents home in Charlotte, North Carolina visiting with family and taking some time away from the stress of moving and finding a new home. And while these things are important, it was also a chance to follow up on some of the great eats that Charlotte has to offer. Long time readers may remember the amazing burger I took down at the Penguin Drive-In in 2008.

This year I found myself sitting at the counter with family members at a burger joint in South Park named appropriately - The Counter - which was packed with a well healed lunch time crowd of business people and families who were taking a lunch break from shopping at the nearby mall. We opted for the counter due to the wait for a table and I was immediately reminded of this great scene from one of the greatest Seinfeld episodes ever - The Maid.

The concept behind The Counter is a customizable burger with enough combinations of burger, toppings, sauces and buns to result in over 300,000 different flavor combinations. 

With mini-pencil in hand I began to work this menu with the ultimate goal of creating the famous Aussie Burger, but I was quickly distracted by the lack of pickled beets on the menu. With over 300k + combinations available, you would think a pickled beet would be found someplace.

Undaunted I created the Andrew burger, a 1/3 pound patty topped with dill pickle chips, grilled onions, grilled pineapple, roasted red peppers, honey cured bacon and a roasted garlic aioli. Ridiculous is size and scope, I quickly added a tall chocolate shake to my order and the turned my attention to the first round of appetizers, ordered by my sister at the end of the counter.

 
First up we had a shallow plate of fried pickle chips, a staple of southern bar menus and a treat that I find largely missing here in St. Louis. I've had fried pickles across a broad swath of the south - from the Carolina's to Texas, and while all fried pickles are good, some are just better. They are the best when they have a light, almost tempura coating and are paired with a tangy ranch dressing. They are even better when instead of pickle chips - they are made from dill pickle spears - like they make at The Alamo Drafthouse in Austin. 

Sadly, the pickles at The Counter have a heavy breading that the pickles can't really compete with and it was more like biting into a poorly executed fried zucchini than a crisp fried pickle.

Next up we dug into a plate of sweet potato fries coated liberally in sea salt. The fries were perfectly cooked, crisp on the outside and waiting for a pairing with mayo or the ranch dressing from the fried pickles. For the most part I watched these fries from my end of the counter, tasting once but not really getting to dig in. Everyone seemed to enjoy them, I know I would have had I been sitting more towards the center of the counter. Bummer - such is life when you are eating at a counter with a crowd.

As the apps were swept up and carried away my shake appeared - a picture of ice cream, whole milk and whipped cream in a tall glass.  As a good shake should be, this one was way to thick to pull through a straw until you hold it in your hand for a while, allowing your body heat to melt the drink just enough to begin sipping. I moved the shake to my side and leaned forward to hide it from my wife's roving hands with my arm - alas she never orders her own shake - opting instead to "tax" mine at will - the cost for ordering such a decadent burger side.

After some good natured ribbing of my little brother and a few quick scans of the burgers that were making their way out of the kitchen and too waiting tables, my burger appeared on the counter before me. My first thought was amazement at the construction of this burger as it was obvious that there is forethought given to which toppings ride under the patty and which ride on top.

My burger came with a solid foundation of dill pickle chips and then a liberal coating of roasted red peppers, forming a nest for the 1/3rd pound (after cooking) burger, charred in a manner that suggested it was broiled instead of grilled or smashed out on a flat top.

On top of the patty came a layer of thick cut and grilled onion, several slices of grilled pineapple and then some crisp bacon. Roasted garlic aioli came on the side and I applied a healthy coating to the grilled bun before placing it atop this monstrosity. 

What did it look like? Well I'll show you.

The burger lasted in this state for only a moment before I attacked it in the only way I know how - for a burger this tall you can only knife it down the center, pick it up side ways and eat your way to the other side. 

The burger was moist and cooked to a perfect medium. I found myself trying to get a taste of pineapple into every bite as it played so well with each ingredient, especially the grilled onions and the bacon.

Delicious.

Here are some of the other burgers my family tried that day. I didn't bother to ask them what they put on them because I was to busy focusing on my own. 

Distraction - its a five inch tall burger.

My brother in law took down a onion rich western burger.

My sister in law ordered a 2/3 pound cheese burger.

My wife ordered a veggie burger - huh?
 

Guest Contribution - Jeff "The Road Warrior" Lash

For some time now I've been pestering friends who always seem to be traveling around the country to contribute accounts of the food they run into on their trips. I'm very excited to share the first of what I hope are many contributions - from Jeff Lash - unfiltered and in the proverbial raw:

At Andrew's request, I was intending on providing a write-up of one specific dining experience -- a Friday Fish Fry at our local St. Louis Catholic Church. However, I have had a number of noteworthy dining experiences lately, and rather than focus on just one or attempt to write up separate posts for each, in the interest of efficiency, I present: Jeff's food travels, March 2009.

March was an eventful month, including a lot of business travel. Business travel often leads to interesting food experiences -- good and bad. Let's start closest to home, though, with...

Friday Fish Fry

St. Louis is a very Catholic town (um, "Saint" Louis, anyone?), the kind of town where many people pick the location of their next home by what parish they want to be a part of. Like the earliest flowers of spring, the Friday Fish Fry signs start popping up right after Ash Wednesday. On some major roads, there's almost a Fish Fry sign every block (literally).

Having been in St. Louis many years and never having attended, I figured it was high time I experienced the tradition. I rounded up a group of friends -- my wife, the vegetarian, not included, since the mere smell of fried fish makes her nauseous -- and we hit up the Fish Fry at Saint Joan of Arc a few weeks ago.

Cheers was a place that everybody supposedly wanted to go to because everybody would know your name. At Saint Joan on a Friday night, it's not too different. Most patrons seemed to be church members and regulars, and it seemed like everyone knew everyone. During the 20 minute wait in line, there were lots of mini-reunions and friendly conversations. Though we were new, people were friendly, and canned beer was offered to us to make the line easier to handle. You have to pay for the beer, though it's dirt cheap. In fact, the whole meal is -- for about $7 you can get a full plate of food, drink, and dessert. (Cash only, of course, though that's understandable.)

I was expecting an all-you-can-eat buffet -- I thought that was part of the appeal -- though Saint Joan does everything a la carte, which is fine, since I really couldn't / shouldn't have eaten anything more than the one hearty serving. They of course have the standard fried fish patty, just like you remember from elementary school (and I say "you" and not "we" since I never was allowed to buy lunch at school growing up), though other options are available including some variety of fish which was fried, head and tail and all. I don't remember what kind of fish it was, since I think I'm still trying to block out the image of a fried fish carcases on various plates. There were also fried catfish nuggets, as well as grilled fish for those not interested in anything from the "fried" food group. Normally I eat very healthy, though if you're going to a Fish Fry, you eat fried fish. Would you go to a steakhouse and order a salad for an entree? Wrong place, wrong time.

Sides included standard fare -- potatoes, either oven roasted or french fried; various vegetables; macaroni and cheese -- and some interesting (to me, at least) options -- apple sauce; spaghetti in tomato sauce. Fine foods, though paired with fish seemed a bit odd.

To drink your options are the aforementioned can of beer, or the classic plastic cup of soda poured from a 2 liter bottle. The enormous dessert table offered a wide selection of homebaked and storebought goods, neatly arranged bake sale style (on small paper plates, covered by plastic wrap). The glass of Diet Coke and 2 desserts I chose added $1.50 to my total bill.

The food is, well, what you'd expect of a fish fry done by volunteers in the cafateria of a church. Actually, no, it's probably a bit better. The fish was a bit overfried and not as warm as it probably should have been, likely due to it sitting out in a heating tray for too long. Still, it was decent, and served as a good foundation for the meal. I wasn't expecting gourmet British-style fish and chips, and thus I wasn't dissapointed. For sides I went with the oven roasted potatoes and mac + cheese. Yes, starchy, I know, though I figured those were good standbys. The mac + cheese was the typical generic cafeteria brand, with big too-soft noodles and a gooey way-too-unhealthy fake cheese sauce. (I probably would have been better off with the spaghetti.) The potatoes were excellent, though, even better than some I've had at "normal" restaurants. And the desserts were solid as well -- the chocolate cake seemed to be homemade, likely from a box mix; and the store-bought chocolate chip cookies, which I later shared at home with my wife, were of course fine. Not the most adventurous choices, though you can't go wrong with box cake and store cookies.

All in all, it was a great experience and I'm definitely up for it again. The next day I remembered why I rarely eat fried food (entrees, at least), partly because my body isn't conditioned for them any longer. (How I ate chicken fingers and fries pretty much every day the first two years of college is beyond me.) Of course, you don't go to a Friday Fish Fry at your local church because the food is going to be stellar; you go because it's going to be cheap, it's going to be good atmosphere, and because it's just a tradition -- and on those things, it delivers. Sure, some local restaurants offer Fish Fry Fridays, though to me that's just not the same.

Since that review was longer that I thought, I'll keep these next reviews on the short side...

Weber Grill Restaurant

I was in Indianapolis for work, and as we approached our hotel downtown, I noticed an enormous novelty barbeque grill hanging off the side of a building about a block away. I knew instantly that was where I was going for dinner. I had heard about the Weber Grill Restaurant, where everything (well, almost everything) is cooked on real genuine Weber Grills. (No, Andrew, I didn't ask to take a tour and see the kitchen.) As a marketer, I marveled at the innovative brand extension. As a fan of grilling, I marveled at the chance to eat at a restaurant where they cooked on real Weber Grills. The restaurant did not fail to deliver, with the highlight being the Weber Sampler appetizer, which included Beer Can Chicken Tenders and Steak Skewers -- a great selection of Weber-ized meats. Though I normally avoid chain restaurants when I travel and try to find something local, this was worth it. (Plus, does 3 locations in Illinois and 1 in Indianapolis really count as a chain?) Recommended.

Burger King Burger Shots

I arrived in Orlando late one night and needed a snack. Not a full meal, not dessert, just something quick and simple before I went to sleep. Across the parking lot from my hotel was a Burger King. (Actually, there was another hotel -- this is Orlando, after all, and we were only minutes away from Universal Studios.) Having been wooed by the advertisements for BK Burger Shots, I figured I'd give them a shot. Tiny burgers seem to be in, with Steak 'n Shake pushing them hard as well. Maybe it's because of the economy, or the lingering fascination we Americans seem to have with all things "Mini" (-Cooper, -me), though I too was sucked in.

Don't make this mistake.

First, the obvious caveat that no food shown on TV or in advertisements actually looks like that when you buy it, though that shouldn't be a surprise. Second, the mini burgers are only sold in packs of 2 or 4. It's not like White Castle (more on them in a minute) where you can order their sliders in any denomination you want. This is probably my biggest gripe -- a 2-pack of sliders is probably about the same amount of meat as one regular Burger King hamburger (not a Whopper or anything fancy like that, just your basic bottom-of-the-line hamburger), and it costs probably about $.30 more. So why would you order the sliders? Because the advertisement makes you want them, that's why. Not that they were horrible -- they were about the same as your standard fast food burger, which is only mediocre. Of course, Andrew probably thinks that I ruined them by having them plain with just ketchup, just like how I ruin my hot dogs. It's okay, I've accepted that, I'm moving on.

In summary, don't fall for the appeal of the sliders, at BK at least. If you really want mini burgers, the venerable White Castle does this as their bread and butter, not as a seasonal side to take advantage of a trend. Plus, their buns are steamed, which makes all the difference.

In 'n Out

Now, if you want a "real" fast food burger, all the foodies tell you that In 'n Out is really the only place to go. I was in California for work and this was really the only place on my food list. I had been once before and dragged along a co-worker who had never been. This particular establishment near LAX was packed on a Thursday evening. I was particularly enthralled by the car-hop taking orders at the drive thru.

In 'n Out is known for two things -- a dead-simple menu, and super-fresh food. As you can see, the menu has a limited number of options, and beyond just differentiating them from the competition, it's probably good for business too (read The Paradox of Choice to learn more). That doesn't mean that you can't order off the menu, though. In fact, they've attracted a whole cult following around the "secret" items to order. In 'n Out lists some on their site, though there are plenty of others.

Beyond the menu coolness, the food is just plain better. The meat is never frozen, the french fries are made fresh from real live cut potatoes, and the shakes are made from real ice cream rather than a mix. I kept it simple, with a single burger, fries, and chocolate shake. The burger patties are bigger than the average fast food variety, though not as big as I remembered. It's more like the size of what you might find at Steak 'n Shake (or Carl's Drive-In, for those St. Louisans in the know) than your standard $1 drive-thru, not that I eat any of those varieties even infrequently. The patty was definitely higher quality, and extra points for the real romaine lettuce rather than shredded iceberg you normally find. The grilled bun is a nice touch -- usually I like my buns warm, not grilled or toasted, though it worked here. (Insert "buns" joke here.)

The fries definitely taste fresh, and the serving size is generous. I'll admit to not being picky about chocolate shakes -- even the crappy fast food ones are okay in my book -- though this was definitely a cut above the norm. Still not to the level of what you'd get at Crown Candy or the venerable Friendly's Fribble, though respectable nonetheless.

If you're on the West Coast and happen upon an In 'n Out, go in and check it out. (Sorry, that was a horrible, horrible pun.)

Bubbalou's Bodacious BBQ

Upon recommendation from a co-worker, a group of us visiting our Orlando office took the short ride from the hotel to to Bobbalou's Bodacious BBQ. Or, should I say -- the "award-winning" Bubbalou's Bodacious BBQ. A sign of a good restaurant of any variety is framed, signed pictures of celebrities and pseudo- or local-celebrities hanging up by the cash register, and Bubbalou's didn't fail to deliver. Three things I liked about this place:

1) It's in a modern strip mall, perhaps the most soul-less environment known to man, though they managed to make you feel like you're at Iron Works when you're inside.

2) They serve snow cones.

3) Their next door neighbor in the strip mall is a uber-healthy juice bar, which makes for some fun games to play while waiting for your food, as in: "Hey, see that guy parking his car -- do you think he's coming to get some barbeque or going to the juice bar?" Okay, the game is actually very easy and not challenging, though the dichotomy between the two establishments is still amusing.

Nothing else to add in particular here. Standard BBQ main dishes, sides, and prices. Every BBQ place says they smoke their meat the best, or have the best sauces. I'm not a conniseur, so I can't compare all of those claims, I just know this was darn good food.

Matt vs. Food

I was lucky to have my brother Matt and my future brother in law Chris in town for a visit recently. 

We pretty much ate and drank from the moment they got off the plane from North Carolina until they left three days later, starting off with some outstanding sushi at Tani Sushi Bistro in Clayton. For the midwest, Tani somehow manages to get fish that is of a better quality than I can normally find around town. 

Standouts at Tani include the sashimi, the dragon ball, a collection of inventive rolls (sadly many include cream cheese which continues to confuse me) and a real treat - the hot rock - served in a thick bowl and accompanied with thinly sliced raw beef in a soy, garlic, ginger and yuzu. The beef cooks directly on the stone in seconds and is a perfect foil to the sushi.

I took the guys to the City Diner for breakfast the next day and to discuss what we would end up doing during their visit. After a half hour of fruitless discussion, my brother suggested that a eating tour of St. Louis might be in order. 

I was into the idea of a tour of my favorite places here in town, however I had no desire to actually complete such a task myself. I let him know that if he felt up to it, he would be eating alone for the most part and that when in doubt, I would be ordering for him.

Lucky for everyone my brother is hungry, brave and willing to entertain his big brother - and what follows is a minute to minute and bite to bite recap of Matt vs. Food - St. Louis Edition.

09:43:46 AM - City Diner - St. Louis Missouri

The plot is hatched and the day is full of possibilities. I kick Matt's day off with a slinger - two eggs with sausage and hash browns, topped with chili and cheese. Friends recommended that the City Diner slinger should be topped with mustard as well. From the way Matt devoured the dish - I can only assume it was a good addition.

The mere mortals amongst us enjoyed BLT's and The Southsider - eggs, biscuits and gravy with hash browns.

Fortified on sturdy carbs from breakfast we headed out to get Matt the St. Louis eating adventure that he demanded, nay deserved, for flying in to spend the weekend with me.

11:37:56 AM - Woofie's - St. Louis Missouri

I last visited Woofie's in November and I reviewed and contrasted Chicago style and New York style dogs. I suggested the Chili Pie for Matt - a Vienna dog served on a bed of chili, Fritos, onions, pickles and cheese. 

Matt knife and sporking it at Woofies, enjoying each bite a bit to much.

01:22:51 PM - Carl's Drive-In - St. Louis Missouri

I wrote up a long time favorite of mine, Carl's Drive-In, last fall. I can't think of an out of town visitor that I have not tried to bring to Carl's because the burgers are executed so well. Pressed flat on a griddle, the burgers become completely caramelized and for some diners take on a sweet flavor that plays along with the toppings. Matt enjoyed a double cheeseburger with all the fixings and a mug of home made root beer the size of his head.

A few hours and stops in, Matt was motoring along and devouring everything I could put in front of him.

01:48:12 PM - Kolache Factory - St. Louis Missouri

A kolache is a small dough treat filled with any number of meat, vegetable or fruit fillings. The Kolache Factory is a small chain with a shop in St. Louis and serve several dozen varieties of this eastern European treat. 

Matt opted for a Philly Cheesesteak while Chris took a chance with the bbq pork. In hindsight, this seems to be the first time I captured gastronomic distress in my brother.

02:14:53 PM - Ted Drewes Frozen Custard - St. Louis Missouri

Ted Drewes has been serving frozen custard in St. Louis since the 1920's and its likely that no other local location has received as much attention by the national media than it has - the place is known far and wide for its frozen treats. Because of this, "that custard place" is always on the lips of visitors as someplace they would like to stop while they are in town. 

It could be that the massive quantity of cream, eggs and sugar are leading to the serious nature of this picture, however it could be that a concrete from Ted Drewes is nothing to joke about and he's just getting down to spooning that sweet treat into his already filled food hole. 

02:39:47 PM - CC's Depot Dog - Home Depot - St. Louis Missouri

A hot dog from Home Depot? You bet your ass. CC's Depot Dogs can be found nestled by the exit doors of the Kingshighway Home Depot, and they serve up some tasty hot dogs for a price you can't beat for quick lunch - a loaded Chicago style or custom dog will run you about two bucks after tossing a quarter into the tip jar.

Matt "enjoying" a CC's dog in the parking lot, not to mention his third or fourth soft drink of the day. All that sugar - rookie eating tour mistake for sure.

03:12:14 PM - Gus' Pretzels - St. Louis Missouri

Gus' rests in the shadow of the Budweiser brewery and has been making pretzels since the 1920's. With dinner reservations at Modesto for later that evening, I figured that this doughy and salty treat would be perfect for soaking up all the grease and chili Matt had taken down.

Matt Veety - eating machine - he will break you.

10:59:46 AM - Chris' Pancake & Dining - St. Louis Missouri

The next morning we began again, this time at Chris' Pancake & Dining for some much needed breakfast. To my amazement Matt dove right back into the challenge after a nights sleep and healthy constitutional, this time opting for steak and eggs with hash browns. The only issue with his order resulted from his relative unfamiliarity with the menu. When you are offered a side of toast or pancakes at a pancake house, you always, always say pancake. After a quick discussion he indeed have the pancakes.

I joined Matt for the carb load by taking down a stack of pancakes with bacon, eggs, hash browns and a bloody mary. However, to be fair, I didn't eat much the day before and I had just finished running up all 42 floors of the Metropolitan Building for the American Lung Association.

04:41:01 PM - Tin Can Tavern and Grille - St. Louis Missouri

As part of my plans for the weekend, I pulled together a bar crawl around Tower Grove Park with stops at The Royale, Three Monkey's, The Tin Can Tavern and Grille, The Amsterdam Tavern, Tower Pub, Stella Blues, Friendly's and The Blackthorne Pub. 

Matt waited all day to try out the mini corn dogs at The Tin Can and compared their doughy goodness to the classic appetizer called pigs in a blanket - an observation I can't bring myself to argue with.

Keeping up the impressive consumption, Matt didn't hesitate to enjoy a cold PBR with his mini corn dogs, while I enjoyed the opportunity to share my neighborhood and friends with my family.

07:59:49 PM - Stella Blues - St. Louis Missouri

While others faded, Matt saddled up the bar at Stella Blues and took down a basket of onion rings.

Moving into his 48th hour of eating, Matt kept taking his best shot at menu's all over St. Louis. It was an epic showing that left me proud yet concerned about his body's ability to process all that grilled, fried and steamed food. 

10:17:35 PM - The Blackthorne Pub - St. Louis Missouri

Regular readers might remember my post on the Blackthorne Pub, where they serve up Chicago and pan style pizzas in the land of the inedible thin crust pizza topped with provel - St. Louis. The Blackthorne turned out to be the end of Matt's eating tour as well as the bar crawl, which is probably a good thing for all of us.

A group of us destroyed several pizzas in a matter of minutes before retiring for the evening. While we all had a great time, I find myself wishing great piles of vegetables on my brother to help him recover from this eating challenge - because as I was creating this post - I noticed his meals were totally devoid of them. 

Good times - great meals.

Let's never do this again.

Best of 2008

This has been a great year of travel and eating, discovering new tools and techniques for cooking, experiencing great slices of Americana and time spent with friends and family. I thought it would be a good idea to capture a few of my favorites for the past year.

A New Perspective Via A New Grill:

Well constructed and sporting thick cast iron grates, this Brinkman grill creates enough smoke and grill marks to turn my back yard into a decent smokehouse. In short order I adjusted to this new tool and turned out top notch whole chickens, ribs, briskets, massive steaks, pizzas and deserts. 

I really like the front loading door which allows you to feed the fire without lifting the lid and losing heat. Maintaining a steady 220 degrees with minor heat management is priceless, but at around $200.00 this grill is a steal. It takes a bit more work than my old gas grill to prep and clean, but you can't beat it as a cooking tool.

Texas Potatoes:

Potato, onion, butter and bacon in a cast iron skillet. From my post "Roasted Garlic Strip Steaks with Texas Potatoes".

Sony DSC-T500 Camera:

In a year of great new toys the Sony DSC-T500 camera has been my favorite. Small enough to fit into my pocket with 10.1 megapixels, a 3.5" wide touch screen, HD video recording with stereo mics and a 5X Optical Zoom. I also really like the macro lens which allows me to get great close ups of food for the site. I'm also loving not having to pull out my Nikon D70 in greasy diners. 

The large screen is really bright and eats though the battery in short order. After a month or so of use, I'm thinking a back up battery for this camera might be one of my "Best of 2009".

Float Trip Chicken:

There are few things better in the world than floating down a river with friends, beers and cold picnic chicken. From my post "Float Trip Picnic Chicken".

Tortas In The Park:

From my first "interview" for the site - I exchanged emails with my friend and regular Friday lunch companion Bob Baker as we made Tortas for 50 people on his birthday. He went to great lengths to get all the right ingredients and I was happy to help put together this great sandwich. From my post "Tower Grove Park Tortas".

Crab Boil:

I was so happy when my wife completed her LEED certification in September. We filled the back yard with people and I prepared the crabs the only way I know how - with lots of Old Bay and steamed in Guinness. From my post "Seafood Boil In The Heart of St. Louis". 

The New York Times Columnists:

Many thanks to Maureen Dowd, Tom Friedman and Paul Krugman for the insight, information and entertainment this year.

Llywelyn's Pub Burger:

 

One of my favorite burgers of the past year. From my post "Llywelyn's Pub".

Nunez de Prado Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil:

Happen chance introduced me to this great olive oil as I wandered around Whole Foods this year. It's got a perfect balance for cooking or for dipping bread in. Voted one of the best olive oils in America by Cooks Illustrated, Whole Foods stocks 25 oz. bottles for around 15 dollars. Next to bacon fat, this oil has quickly become my choice fat in the kitchen.

The Salt Lick:

Sure it is for show, but the open pit at The Salt Lick was a treat to see, and the folks were super nice and let me ram around in their kitchen. From my post "The Salt Lick Barbeque".

"My Life in France" by Julia Child

Probably the best book I read this year. In it Julia tells the story of learning to live, eat and cook in France. Julia lived an incredible life and her love of slow-food makes me excited to get into the kitchen.

Carl's Drive-In:

Old school burgers smashed on a flat top griddle. From my post "Carl's Drive-In".

Rear Window Defrosters and Heated Seats:

I said goodbye to my 1997 Mazda Miata M-Edition this fall. While this car was always fun to drive, it was never a great every day automobile. Instead I opted for some features the Miata never had - rear window defrosters and heated seats - attached to an Acura RL. Unceremoniously named an "old man's car" by my wife, it has made the commute into work one of the best parts of my day. Why - because I can see out the back window in the winter without risking a broken convertible top.

Woofies New York vs Chicago Showdown:

This past fall was all about hot dogs, Chicago style. From my post "New York vs Chicago Style Hot Dogs".

Fakesgiving Trisket:

I'm still not sure why I wanted to stuff a turkey into a perfectly cooked brisket, but I did it. From my post "Trisket - A Turkey Inside a Brisket".

Charlie The Butcher:

After a particularly good edition of "Meet The Press", I would send an email to Tim Russert of NBC News to congratulate him on that weeks content. To try to elicit a reply from the busy newsman, I would suggest that he reward his staff with beef on weck from Charlie The Butcher in Buffalo, New York. Tim never replied to my emails, but I got a chance to think again about how much his show meant to my Sunday mornings as I enjoyed a sandwich in Buffalo this fall. From my post "Charlie The Butcher's Kitchen".

The Penguin Drive In:

Punk rock music, burgers named after engines and a sweet soda called Cheerwine. From my post "The Penguin Drive-In".

Fatherhood:

Sara and I recently announced that we are pregnant to friends and family, and I launched another blog to document all the events leading up to the arrival of our first child in June of 2009. I think its a given that updates on homemade baby food will require equal billing with burgers and dogs next year.

The Penguin Drive-In

In 1954 Jim and Jean Ballentine purchased an ice cream shop in the Plaza-Midwood neighborhood in Charlotte, North Carolina. Populated with families and craftsman style bungalow homes, The Penguin (locally known as "The Bird") was an anchor of the neighborhood during its hay-day serving ice cream, burgers and hot dogs. 

Over the years Charlotte sprawled into the county and the neighborhood fell into decline. The family run businesses that surrounded The Penguin moved and were replaced with adult entertainment establishments. Business slowed and the local hot spot fell into disrepair, closing its doors in 1999. 

Since that time, interest in rehabbing the neighborhood took hold. Families moved back to the area to rehab homes and a group of punk rock kids took over The Penguin, bringing the business back to life. Today, like in the past, The Penguin is a local hot spot with great food and lines running out the door. 

I've been waiting for some time to visit The Penguin, specifically to try a new favorite of mine, deep fried pickles. I've been hooked on this dish since Sara and I visited Gulf Shores, Alabama on our honeymoon. Whereas the pickles in Alabama were breaded with corn meal, the pickles at The Penguin have a light and thin coating that reminds me of tempura. Served with ranch dressing, the fried pickles were a great pairing for a beer and the local soda, a cherry flavored drink called Cheerwine.

As soon as the pickles were polished off, I dug into The Penguin's Big Block Burger. The Big Block Burger is two beef patties weighing a combined 2/3rd of a pound topped with lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

Finishing off the meal was a Race Track Dog topped with mustard, a loose meat chili, a mayo based cole slaw and chopped onions. 

The most memorable part of this hot dog was the scent of chili and cole slaw that hung low over the table as we ate and made me hesitant to try this dog. However, missing out on this treat would have been a mistake. The cole slaw was light and had a tang that you normally find with a vinegar based slaw. Hidden beneath the dog was a spicy mustard that completes each bite with just a bit of heat. 

A few other treats enjoyed at our lunch at The Penguin:

 

The Tupelo Special - Peanut Butter and Banana on Texas Toast

Thin sliced onion rings with a lonely pickle riding on top.

Opinion: Recommended

1921 Commonwealth Ave

Charlotte, North Carolina 28205

Ted's Charcoal Broiled Hots

At one time there was an old tool shed in the shadow of the Peace Bridge that was used to sell sandwiches to the iron workers constructing the international roadway connecting Buffalo, New York and For Erie, Ontario.

In 1927 the bridge was completed and the building was sold to a young immigrant who had operated a horse drawn hot dog cart in a park near the construction site. 80 years later, that rickety old shack that shook when trains passed is gone. However, over the years that small restaurant serving the western side of Buffalo has grown to eight plus a western location in Tempe, Arizona. 

Known locally as Ted's, Ted's Charcoal Broiled Hots are a Buffalo staple. A hot is a western New York flavor of dog made with a mixture of uncured pork, veal, and beef. Ted's uses this classic recipe as well as all beef dogs. Hots are available in multiple sizes, foot long and regular which are topped with chili, cheese, onion, a sad example of a pickle, Ted's famous hot sauce and much to my chagrin, ketchup. 

At Ted's, hots are charbroiled and turned often with a set of serrated grill forks that cut deep crevices into the dog and natural casing. The open flame method of cooking a hot leaves great grill marks and smoke flavor to complete the base of this hot dog. Well done dogs take on the look of a New Jersey specialty, a ripper, albeit a mildly fried one. 

For me, the snap of a grilled natural casing outshines the boiled dogs that are common in the Chicago Style and is at least as good as a New York dog cooked on a flat top griddle. Adding to the smoky and spicy dog is Ted's famous hot sauce, which if added in quantity will leave you grasping for the nearest loganberry pop. Much like the Beef on Weck, a loganberry drink is a perfect foil for the nitrite bomb served at Ted's. The local beverage stands up to the spice and smoke of the dog in a way that only a loganberry can. (I assume, it seems silly to try to figure out how a Ted's matches with a Coke.)

Sides are plentiful, but I would advise opting for the onion rings which are fried while you wait. Sliced and coated thinly, the onions cook fast and crispy, matching well with a hot from Ted's.

Opinion: Recommended

Nine Locations in Western New York and Arizona

Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery

The Finger Lakes are a chain of eleven lakes in the Upstate New York, dotting the landscape that my wife and I grew up in. The lakes are long and deep and reminded early map-makers of the fingers of a hand. 

Because of the lakes' great depth and geography, the area provides cover to over 100 vineyards that flank the shores of Seneca, Cayuga, Canandaigua, and Keuka Lakes. This "lake effect" retains residual summer warmth in the winter, and winter's cold in the spring. Grape fields are protected from disastrous spring frost during grape formation, and early frost before the harvest. 

I got a chance on a lazy weekday afternoon to visit the Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery and had the pleasure of a tasting and tour given by a family member who happened to be working the tasting bar that day. After generous samples of the entire wine list and clinging to a glass of semi-sweet Riesling, I ventured into the cellar of the winery to poke around.

Residing at the bottom of a great old barn was a home-brewers dream, large jacketed fermenters and brightening tanks, a small bottling line and racks of Missouri Oak casks aging Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Enjoying a drink in the cellar would normally be the perfect ending to a winery trip, but I ventured out the basement door and face to face with the owner and winemaker at Cayuga Ridge. They were moving recently fermented Cabernet Sauvignon though a hydropress before racking into casks for a long rest and maturation. 

A hydropress is basically a large stainless steel container with a rubber bladder inside that fills with water and acts as a press. The pressure of the bladder presses the recently fermented wine, called lees, to remove residual yeast and precipitate before aging.

The cab was pleasantly cloudy like an unfiltered wine. It also was missing any of the oak flavor and mellowing that a rest in a cask would add. Instead this wine reminded me of the fields it came from. I shared some with family who found the taste harsh and in one case "dirt-like", however I think that is exactly why I enjoyed it. 

When making beer at home I taste and smell all my ingredients before brewing. I take time and sample wort hot from from being sparged, from hydrometer readings and the bottling bucket. Knowing your ingredients and following the path to maturity allows you to get to know where a beer is going and is the reward for crafting a product from scratch. It was exciting to see a sliver of the path that wine takes from grape to bottle. 

Many thanks to Danny Bell for the wine, tour and unique experience.

Charlie the Butcher's Kitchen

A kummelweck is a salty roll popular in Western New York, brought to the United States in the 1880's by Germans working and living in the cities and towns lining the Erie Canal. Kummelweck is similar to a Kaiser roll, but topped with chunky kosher salt that reminds me of the kind found on pretzels and a sparse addition of caraway seeds. 

Kummelweck is commonly shortened to “weck" (pronounced "wick"). When a weck is combined with hand carved slow-roasted rare roast beef, fresh horseradish and a healthy drenching of au jus it forms a sandwich known to the citizens of Buffalo and the surrounding area as "beef on weck".

Like most regional foods, the history of the beef on weck is long, storied and argued over. However, the general consensus is that in the early 1900's a local pub owner was looking for a way to feed his customers and seized on the roll, figuring the salt would make his patrons even thirstier for his beer. Variations weave Standard Oil, a fire, the 1901 Pan American Exposition and a long lost recipe from the Black Forest into the story. Like any good regional food, the tale can often be as good as the food.

 

Much like pizzas in New York City, loyalties to the local purveyors of this fine sandwich run deep. For my family this means we made a stop at Charlie the Butcher's over the Thanksgiving holiday to enjoy a sandwich and loganberry pop, another local staple and a perfect companion to a beef on weck.

The roast beef at Charlie the Butcher's is sliced on the thick side but is tender and easy to bite though. For me, horseradish plays an important role in this sandwich and I really enjoy how it complements the saltiness of the bun and the flavor of the beef.

As most great sandwiches have a element of messiness to them, the top half of the weck is dipped quickly into au jus and absorbed into the bread. The end result is a sandwich that at times requires the cheese-steak eating stance of the Philadelphia Lean so one may stay clean of juice and drippings.

A beef of weck is a pleasure to eat and worth each and every one of the 750 miles traveled between St. Louis and Buffalo to have one. Because I only get to enjoy this sandwich once a year, it seems to be a candidate for a cooking project here at home. Perhaps I'll ponder this a bit further as we hunker down into the cold of the Mid West winter and need a hearty meal that also warms the soul. 

In the meantime kudos are due to Charlie the Butcher and his delicious beef on weck.

Opinion: Highly Recommended

446 Cayuga Rd

Cheektowaga, NY 14225

(716) 626-9722

The Salt Lick Barbeque

Since 1967, the Robert's family have owned and operated The Salt Lick Barbeque on their family ranch in Driftwood, Texas, using a recipe handed down from generation to generation since the Civil War. I recently got a chance to enjoy a family style dinner at The Salt Lick as we celebrated the rehearsal dinner for friends getting married in Austin. 

Very good barbeque is both an art and science; skill in the application of heat and smoke, showmanship in how your wares are displayed to waiting guests. After all, we do eat with our eyes as much as anything else. From buildings built of limestone quarried from the family ranch, long wooden tables and benches to accommodate family style meals and the stone holding pit within eyeshot of a framed picture of the owners daughters and Bobby Flay, the atmosphere of the restaurant is well executed and welcoming. 

The staff was very friendly and allowed me to check out the holding pit, which is the centerpiece of the restaurant, and the smokers which are hidden from view and the dining areas. Both were impressive in their design and evidence of day in and day out usage, but it was the holding pit that captured my attention. The limestone theme is continued with the pits construction, which is laid out in a horseshoe shape. The pit was a source of great pride folks tending to its fire, and they welcomed all my questions with a smile. Flanked by stacks of seasoned hickory wood, the fire in the pit is fed slowly all day, adding a last dose of flavor to the beef brisket, pork ribs, chicken and smoked sausage hung from above. 

Where the pit is the art and showmanship, the science and skill is evident in the outstanding meats The Salt Lick prepares. Slow cooked to perfection with ample evidence of smoke ring, the Salt Lick is a perfect example of what is commonly thought of as Texas barbeque - dry rubbed and slow cooked. This is not to do a disservice to the different barbeque styles found across Texas, which actually consist of at least four main regional styles, all with different flavors, cooking methods, ingredients, and cultural origins. It is only to say that when people discuss the barbeque of the United States, The Salt Lick is what people are referencing when they compare Texas to Memphis, St. Louis, Kansas City or North Carolina. 

Whole chickens, racks of ribs and beef brisket are rubbed with house seasoning and cooked slow and low to perfection, leaving the aforementioned smoke ring and interiors that are among the most moist I've ever had the chance to sample. Meats are mopped with a version of The Salt Lick's barbeque sauce as they smoke, but for the most part are left to reflect the unadulterated balance of spice and smoke that can only come after hours and hours over slow and low heat. 

The family style dinner at The Salt Lick includes cornbread, a platter or smoked beef brisket, pork ribs, chicken and smoked sausage, baked beans, potatoes, cole slaw, sweet tea, and a cobbler for desert. All the sides were tasty, but did not steal the spotlight from the barbeque. A sauce that has a hint of Hawaiian flare in the background is provided on the table for those wishing to smother their barbeque. While the house barbeque sauce complements everything well, I found it unnecessary. 

The Salt Lick does not serve alcohol, but our hosts provided coolers filled to the brim with ice and Shiner Bock, which is available here in St. Louis, but for me has never tasted as good as it did that night, with its intended pairing - Texas barbeque.

Opinion: Recommended

18001 FM 1826

Driftwood, Texas 78619

512-858-4959

Hey Cupcake

I recently got back from Austin, Texas were I attended a wedding and generally ate my way around the city and the outlying areas. Austin is an interesting city with a vibe that reminds me of Madison, Wisconsin and Burlington, Vermont. 

The wedding was on the weekend, but Sara and I took a few extra days to go antiquing, check out the local museums and see the Congress Avenue Bridge bat colony. However, with all the great things to do and see in Austin, I was most happy to discover a culture of truck and trailer food vendors ranging from Tex-Mex to gourmet cupcakes like they serve up at the Hey Cupcake! stand on South Congress.

The stand, which appears to be a renovated Airstream trailer is located in a lot on the 1600 block of South Congress. I would have missed this stand entirely as Sara and I walked back to our car if it wasn't for the large, rotating cupcake lighting up the night sky like a confectionery lighthouse.  

We tried the Vanilla Dream (vanilla bottom / vanilla top) and the appropriately named Standard (vanilla bottom / chocolate top). Both cakes were moist and tasty with more than ample frosting riding on top of each. Sara thought there was to much frosting whereas I thought it all came together in a perfect sugary mess. Had we not already eaten several times that afternoon and evening, I would have opted for a Whipper Snapper, where fresh whipped cream is shot into the center of your cupcake. Not bad for 2 bucks a pop.

While you are checking out Hey Cupcake, take in some of the local shops as well. Whereas most of downtown Austin has the feeling of any other gentrified and revitalized small city, this area of Congress seems to stay true to the artistic streak Austin is known for. Of particular interest is an antique shop called Uncommon Objects and a shop featuring Texas designers called Parts & Labor where I got this awesome shirt screen printed by local artist Will Heron.

'05 Burger Family Reunion. Genius.

When Hot Dogs Cost Hundreds

Very often I find myself seeking out American cuisine that transcends region and social structure, foods that are woven into the fabric of our country and rise to the level of equalizer, enjoyed by all, but in our own individual ways. Regionally, there are few items that represent this idea better than the hot dog. 

Be it the perfect union of dog and fruit juice at Gray's Papaya in New York City, the crunch of a deep fried Ripper at Rutt's Hut in New Jersey, the ritual of visiting The Varsity in Atlanta or dogs that are dragged through Chicago's best gardens, I am always seeking out places that are new to me, but are long time standards for locals, foodies and road warriors in the know.

It is with this in mind that I headed to Chicago recently to attend a conference on Information Technology Governance, which happened to be located close to two standout hot dog joints that I missed on my last trip in June. My goal was to attend the conference and then enjoy a dinner of dogs before heading back to St. Louis. I planned to stop first at Hot Doug's and then move on to Superdawg where in car dining still reigns supreme. 

Alas, my plans were interrupted as I was hustling though a dark construction zone about 40 miles outside of Chicago. I was heading back to my hotel with dinner - a coveted Lou Malnati's pizza resting between an Investors Business Daily and Wall Street Journal, covered by a sweat shirt and kept warm by the seat warmers in the passenger seat. With the smell of deep dish wafting though the car and my thoughts turning towards sitting back in my room with a beer and pizza I did not notice a large object in the road. Upon impact it shredded my front tire, banged around the underside of the car for an eternity, sent me into what shoulder there was to be had and the mud left from 9 inches of rain left by Hurricane Ike a few days before. 

The process of extracting my car from that mess took over an hour and included a second tow truck when the first slid into the mud and also got stuck. Back in my hotel room and with my conference plans in doubt I dug into that Lou Malnati's pie in a joyless state that did not give it justice (hence no review), but with a hearty appreciation for whomever invented the heated seat, which kept my pie hot though the whole ordeal. 

I spent the next day sitting around a repair shop having my car checked out and waiting for them to locate the tires I needed to match my existing ones. As morning turned to afternoon, I slowly gave up on making it to my conference and instead grabbed my GPS to see if I could find lunch, specifically a hot dog, within walking distance of where I was stuck. 

I ended up at a chain called Portillo's that in many respects reminds me of a Fuddrucker's where the burgers have been swapped for Chicago style dogs. The size of a small warehouse with a two lane drive though wrapping around the back, the place was busy for 1:30PM in the afternoon, which for most is long past lunchtime. 

There are 40+ Portillo's now, however the first opened as a stand called "The Dog House" in 1963. While they have expanded to a minor restaurant empire you can't tell by the hot dogs which were excellent. I started with "the works" that met my recommended daily intake of vegetables and nitrates. Loaded down with sauerkraut, mustard, onion, sweet pickle relish, a dill pickle spear, tomato, peppers, and celery salt, this dog is a challenge to fit into your mouth. All this rides inside a steamed poppy seed bun which holds up to the task of transport from wrapper to waiting stomach. It is worth the effort and very filling, living up to the nickname this style of hot dog has, "The Depression Sandwich", earned in 1929.

The misfortune of the past 24 hours began to vanish, but was not complete until I moved along to a chili dog with onions. 

I rarely partake of the chili dog for reasons that range from intestinal fortitude to domestic tranquility, but I am a long time fan. I've even been known to root friends on when they opt for this special dog. Without the salad that perches atop a Chicago dog, the quality of the Portillo's hot dog has a chance to shine, especially the natural casing which has a pleasant snap when bitten. The chili reminded me of the style you can find at Skyline in Cincinnati and it played well with the added onion. Again, the poppy seeded bun was sturdy enough to carry the dog and fixings without becoming overly soggy or breaking. 

Back in St. Louis, I am happy that the damage to my car was not worse. The materials and slides from the conference will find their way to me via Fed-ex over the next week or so. Finding Portillio's was a stroke of luck, but I am not done with the city by the lake. I will be back sooner rather than later, Superdawg, and I'll be hungry.

Opinion: Recommended

Multiple Locations in Illinois, Indiana and California

Chicago 2008

My wife and I recently visited Chicago for our 1st anniversary and to tour the Smart Home at the Museum of Science and Industry.  From an environmental perspective, I’m sure the greenest thing to do would have been to stay home and read about the Smart House online. However, we wanted a chance to see the technology and materials up close so we decided that we would try to travel in the most environmentally friendly way we could - the train.

For the round trip of 602 miles, how did the train stack up against taking a plane or our car:

Airline = .458 Tons or 916 LBS of CO2
Automobile (Avg 25mpg) = .234 Tons or 468 LBS of CO2
Train = .12 Tons or 240 LBS of CO2

Via calculator at Native Energy.

Given that we are Americans and are creatures of speed and convenience, we would have loved to take the hour long flight between St. Louis and Chicago. Taking our car would have been quicker as well given the track work that delayed us on both legs of our trip. However, we saved hundreds of dollars by not flying, as well as avoiding the hassles and delays that come with trips to the airport. With gas and parking in downtown Chicago for the long weekend it’s realistic that we would have spent around $200 for transportation. Instead on the train we traveled business class to Chicago and home in a private sleeper room with a meal for the same $200. We also had time to talk and relax, watch a movie, read several magazines and enjoy the rolling Illinois countryside.

Chicago is a great city and my list of places to see and more importantly eat at was as long as our weekend was short. We walked where we could and utilized the train system to cover our adventures from Lincoln Square to Hyde Park. Highlights included the Smart House, an architectural river tour, an outstanding meal and bottle of 1999 Marques de Riscal Baron de Chirel Reserva at Café Iberico, and the morning coffee at the W Chicago City Center. A major disappointment was our brunch at Kitsch’n which can be summed up as pretty food that tastes pretty bad and the W Chicago City Center in general. Missed and saved for another day were Superdawg Drive-in, The Frontera Grill, Lou Malnati's Pizzeria and Gene & Georgetti.

Summer 2008 Chicago Trip: A Photo Essay

Inspired by tales of many friends who have traveled around Europe by train, Sara and I packed a light picnic of grapes, crackers and cheese and wine for our trip to Chicago.

Sara and I at the Navy Pier celebrating our 1st wedding anniversary. Interestingly enough, our wedding was recently included in the Missouri/Kansas print edition of The Knot Wedding Magazine.

A thunderstorm rolls across Illinois farmland.

Our return trip included accommodations in a sleeper room as the train was on its way to LA. As part of our ticket, we were invited to a meal in the dining car, which was a pleasant surprise. Sara and I each had a Flat Iron Steak and enjoyed our meal with a nice German man by way of Toronto who travels the rails around the world as a way to enjoy his retirement.

Things Discovered and More Information:

• Birds of Paradise, Price’s Chicken Coop, Charlotte, North Carolina
• Robbs Run House
• NatureMill Automatic Indoor Composter
• Michelle Kaufmann
• Smart Home Exhibit Resource Guide
• Inside the Scandal That Rocked the Formula One Racing World